Compositional. Cultivation: across Europe, Western Asia.
Pyramid
Top
Dewberry is the fruit of Rubus caesius — a low-growing trailing bramble distinct from blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) — found across Europe and Asia. The fruit yields no commercial essential oil; perfumery dewberry accords are reconstructions emphasizing a tart-jammy berry profile distinct from blackberry's deeper sweetness.
Tart-jammy berry opening with a slightly green-leafy undertone. Lighter and brighter than blackberry, with a faint wild-bramble freshness. The acid-sweet balance leans tart.
Evolution over time
Immediately
Immediately
Tart-jammy berry opening with green-leaf top. Recognizable as berry but distinct from blackberry.
After a few hours
After a few hours
Heart phase: damascenone-jammy facet dominates; pairs with co-applied florals.
After a few days
After a few days
Drydown is short — dewberry is a top-to-heart material with limited persistence.
The Full Story
Dewberry (Rubus caesius) differs from blackberry (R. fruticosus) in growth habit (trailing rather than upright canes) and in fruit profile (smaller, juicier, with a waxy bloom on the skin). The flavor is more tart, less concentrated than blackberry.
This note in Première Peau. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.
The perfumery dewberry accord is built from raspberry ketone (4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, CAS 5471-51-2), trans-2-hexenal (the green-leaf top), ethyl butyrate + isoamyl acetate (fruity esters), and β-damascenone (jammy depth).
Commercial usage is niche — dewberry was popular in 1990s Body Shop product lines (Dewberry was one of their signature fragrances 1985-2010), but mainstream perfumery rarely deploys it. Pairs with raspberry, blackberry, violet, vetiver, musk.
Did You Know?
Did you know?
Body Shop Dewberry — launched in 1985 — was so successful in the UK during the late 1980s and 1990s that it was estimated to be worn by approximately one in three British women aged 18-30 in 1992. The fragrance was discontinued in 2010 but launched a Body Shop re-release in 2017 due to massive consumer demand. It remains one of the few examples of a single mass-market fragrance creating an entire generational scent memory in a country.
Extraction & Chemistry
Extraction method: Compositional reconstruction.
IFRA Status
Component materials unrestricted.
Synonyms
EUROPEAN DEWBERRY · RUBUS CAESIUS · BLUE BRAMBLE
Physical Properties
Odor Strength
Medium
Lasting Power
4-8 hours
Appearance
N/A (accord)
In Perfumery
Niche berry accord. Used in fruity-floral and chypre compositions where a tart-bright berry is preferred over blackberry's deeper jam.