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Dewberry

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Dewberry
Category
Subcategory
Origin
VolatilityTop Note
AppearanceN/A (accord)
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesCompositional. Cultivation: across Europe, Western Asia.
PyramidTop

Dewberry is the fruit of Rubus caesius — a low-growing trailing bramble distinct from blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) — found across Europe and Asia. The fruit yields no commercial essential oil; perfumery dewberry accords are reconstructions emphasizing a tart-jammy berry profile distinct from blackberry's deeper sweetness.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery

Scent

Tart-jammy berry opening with a slightly green-leafy undertone. Lighter and brighter than blackberry, with a faint wild-bramble freshness. The acid-sweet balance leans tart.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Tart-jammy berry opening with green-leaf top. Recognizable as berry but distinct from blackberry.
After a few hours

After a few hours

Heart phase: damascenone-jammy facet dominates; pairs with co-applied florals.
After a few days

After a few days

Drydown is short — dewberry is a top-to-heart material with limited persistence.

The Full Story

Dewberry (Rubus caesius) differs from blackberry (R. fruticosus) in growth habit (trailing rather than upright canes) and in fruit profile (smaller, juicier, with a waxy bloom on the skin). The flavor is more tart, less concentrated than blackberry.

This note in Première Peau. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

The perfumery dewberry accord is built from raspberry ketone (4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, CAS 5471-51-2), trans-2-hexenal (the green-leaf top), ethyl butyrate + isoamyl acetate (fruity esters), and β-damascenone (jammy depth).

Commercial usage is niche — dewberry was popular in 1990s Body Shop product lines (Dewberry was one of their signature fragrances 1985-2010), but mainstream perfumery rarely deploys it. Pairs with raspberry, blackberry, violet, vetiver, musk.

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Body Shop Dewberry — launched in 1985 — was so successful in the UK during the late 1980s and 1990s that it was estimated to be worn by approximately one in three British women aged 18-30 in 1992. The fragrance was discontinued in 2010 but launched a Body Shop re-release in 2017 due to massive consumer demand. It remains one of the few examples of a single mass-market fragrance creating an entire generational scent memory in a country.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Compositional reconstruction.

IFRA StatusComponent materials unrestricted.
SynonymsEUROPEAN DEWBERRY · RUBUS CAESIUS · BLUE BRAMBLE
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
Lasting Power4-8 hours
AppearanceN/A (accord)

In Perfumery

Niche berry accord. Used in fruity-floral and chypre compositions where a tart-bright berry is preferred over blackberry's deeper jam.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.