How we createParis · 2022
The house
PREMIEREPEAU began in Paris in 2022, by working with materials rather than by building a brand.
A heart in ParisComposition
The formulas macerate in Paris.
Each perfumer composes from an inspiration provided by the house: sourcing rare materials, unusual creative challenges, play. What you hold in your hand is the version the house chose to keep, after many trials.
A heart by the seaWorkshop
The formulas mature in Deauville.
The house has a workshop in Deauville, on the Normandy coast. That is where the formulas mature.
The perfumers
Four perfumers · seven signatures
“It is even harder to be precise in a simple form.”
She grew up in Champagne, in her father’s restaurant. For every ingredient she asks why it is there and how to make it resonate with the others. In Doppel Dancers she sets a powerful, dry material against what softens it.
“Nature is an endless source of inspiration.”
Summers in upper Provence led him to perfume. He composes from the places that have marked him: Gravitas Capitale brings together the tuberose of India and the asphalt of New York, where he lived.
“It is invisible, rich in emotion, tied to memory.”
A perfumer and a musician, he grew up among the vines of Sancerre. He approaches perfume through the other senses: Nuit Élastique starts from the taste of black olive flesh, around a jasmine and a latex accord he sees as still unexplored.
“To render the starting idea as succinctly as possible, as faithfully as possible, as simply as possible.”
He was raised on his mother’s Armenian spices and always starts from a story. For Albâtre Sépia, a tattooist’s ink and minerality, which he dressed to make them, in his words, addictive, sensual and elegant.
f1 200 Hz
Paris · maceration
VIBRAGE™
Sound works the perfume.
The container vibrates at its own frequency, then at its harmonics.
Frequencies: example from the patent application · figures: illustration
VIBRAGE™
For the sceptics.
VIBRAGE™ is described in a published patent application. Here is what it says, in seven screens.
Patent application · under examinationFR 3 155 006
01 / 07The starting point
A perfume takes weeks to come together.
Maceration takes six to ten weeks, and up to six months for some. The least soluble compounds, such as musks and resins, dissolve slowly in it.
02 / 07Finding the glass’s note
Every glass has its frequency.
A sine wave sweeps through the frequencies. Where the container vibrates most is its resonance frequency, f. It depends on its shape and its material.
03 / 07Playing the note and its harmonics
f, then 2f, then 3f.
The signal is tuned to f within ±2%, then to its multiples. Example from the application: 1,200, 2,400 and 3,600 Hz, applied for 15 minutes to 2 hours.
04 / 07Cavitation
Bubbles that implode.
A strong enough sound wave creates microbubbles in a liquid that grow, then implode. At the core of the implosion, about 5,000 K has been measured, for a few microseconds.
Flint & Suslick, Science, 1991 · Suslick, Science, 1990
05 / 07What it changes, according to the application
The bonds rearrange.
The hydrogen and Van der Waals bonds between molecules are modified. Musks and resins dissolve better. The composition becomes more homogeneous, without phase separation.
06 / 07Checking it
Measurable, before and after.
The application cites four methods to compare the raw composition with the treated one.
- Olfactory panelside-by-side evaluation
- GC-MSgas chromatography and mass spectrometry
- NMRnuclear magnetic resonance
- FTIRFourier-transform infrared spectroscopy
07 / 07The patent
It is all public.
The full text of the application can be read free of charge on data.inpi.fr (in French).
- Status
- Under examination
- Number
- FR 3 155 006 A1
- Filed
- 03.11.2023
- Published
- 09.05.2025
- Title
Procédé de modification d’un parfum par application d’ondes sonores
VIBRAGE™ · reading
What science says.
Published work on sound and alcoholic solutions. It does not concern our perfumes.
- 1991The Temperature of CavitationFlint & Suslick · Science
Measures about 5,000 K at the core of bubbles imploding under sound.
- 1990SonochemistrySuslick · Science
How a sound wave triggers chemical reactions through cavitation.
- 2022Ultrasound-assisted production of alcoholic beveragesGavahian et al. · Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety
A review of how sound is used in making and ageing wines and spirits.
- 2023Ultrasound and microwave techniques as physical methods to accelerate oak wood aged aroma in red wineMuñoz-García et al. · LWT
With 12 h of ultrasound, a wine reaches the oaky aromas of 8 days on oak chips.
- 2019Effects of high power ultrasound treatments on the phenolic, chromatic and aroma composition of young and aged red wineLukić et al. · Ultrasonics Sonochemistry
In a red wine, the phenolic compounds change; most aroma compounds do not.
Perfume house · Extraits de parfum
Slow perfumery. Artisan hands, radical future.
PREMIEREPEAU