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Menthol in Perfumery | Première Peau

GREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES  /  fresh · citrus · green
Menthol
Menthol perfume ingredient
CategoryGREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES
Subcategoryfresh · citrus · green
Origin
VolatilityTop Note
BotanicalMentha × piperita L. / Mentha arvensis L.
Appearancecolorless crystalline fused
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesChina, Germany, India, Japan
PyramidTop

The cold itself, bottled. Sharp, crystalline, nasal-clearing -- peppermint stripped to its molecular essence.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery
  6. See Also

Scent

Sharp, crystalline, and penetrating. The initial impact is cold and clean -- liquid wintergreen glass. Behind the cold sits a sweet, herbaceous mintiness that becomes more apparent as the cooling sensation fades. More piercing than spearmint, less sweet than wintergreen. At trace levels, it reads as 'freshness' rather than 'mint.'

Evolution over time

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The Full Story

Menthol (CAS 89-78-1) is a cyclic terpene alcohol (C10H20O, MW 156.27) that activates the TRPM8 cold receptor, creating the physiological sensation of coldness independent of actual temperature change. It is the primary constituent of peppermint oil (Mentha piperita), comprising 30-55% of the essential oil.

Natural menthol is extracted from corn mint (Mentha arvensis), primarily cultivated in India, China, and Brazil.

In perfumery, menthol is used sparingly. Its cooling effect is powerful but its minty character can overwhelm delicate compositions. It functions best as a trace modifier -- adding a subliminal chill to aquatic, green, and aromatic accords without announcing itself as 'mint.'

Did You Know?

Did you know?
The process for making synthetic menthol uses a chiral catalyst that was key to Ryoji Noyori's 2001 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. produces about 3,000 tonnes of menthol annually using this method -- about 10% of global supply.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Two main routes: (1) Natural extraction from Mentha arvensis corn mint oil via fractional crystallization, primarily in India. Global production exceeds 30,000 tonnes annually.

Molecular FormulaC10H20O
CAS Number89-78-1
Botanical NameMentha × piperita L. / Mentha arvensis L.
IFRA StatusNo known restrictions
SynonymsMINT CAMPHOR · PEPPERMINT CAMPHOR
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
Lasting Power32 hours at 100.00%
Appearancecolorless crystalline fused
Boiling Point212.00 to 216.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg
Flash Point200.00 °F. TCC ( 93.33 °C. )
Specific Gravity1.01300 to 1.01400 @ 25.00 °C.
Refractive Index1.45800 to 1.45800 @ 20.00 °C.
Melting Point34.00 to 36.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg

In Perfumery

Menthol functions as a trace modifier and cooling agent. Used at very low concentrations (0.01-0.5%) to add subliminal coolness to fresh, aquatic, aromatic, and green compositions. At higher doses, it becomes overtly minty and can dominate. Also used in functional perfumery (oral care, deodorants, body sprays) where the cooling sensation is the primary effect. Found in fougere accords alongside lavender and coumarin.

See Also

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