Shiso in Perfumery | Première Peau

Bright, minty-herbal with a cinnamic-anise twist and a camphoraceous background. More complex than spearmint, less sweet than Thai basil, with a perillaldehyde note that reads as simultaneously citrusy and minty. The red variety adds a subtle spicy warmth. On skin, it resolves to a clean, dry herbal character.

Shiso (Perilla frutescens var. crispa) is a Japanese aromatic herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae). The two main varieties — green shiso (aojiso) and red/purple shiso (akajiso) — have distinctly different chemical profiles. Green shiso is dominated by perillaldehyde (a monoterpene aldehyde), while red shiso contains more anthocyanins and has a more complex, slightly cinnamate character.

The smell is difficult to place if you have not encountered the fresh herb: a bright, minty-herbal top note with an unusual cinnamic-anise twist and a faintly camphoraceous background. It is more complex than spearmint, less sweet than basil, with a distinctly East Asian aromatic character that does not map onto Western herb categories.

Shiso has gained traction in niche perfumery as part of the broader interest in culinary and East Asian ingredients. The essential oil is produced in small quantities in Japan and provides a unique herbal note that no Western herb can replicate.