
Tuberose is the strongly fragrant, pure white and waxy flower of Polianthes tuberosa, a plant native to Mexico. Extracts of the plant are used as a note in perfumery.
- Type
- Ingredient
- Olfactive family
- Florals
- Subfamily
- Narcotic florals
- Cluster
- Narcotic white florals
- Source
- flower
- Chemical class
- complex natural mixture (mainly benzenoids, with some terpenes)
Scent
Terroir & Origins
The Full Story
Extraction & Chemistry
Extraction method
In cold enfleurage, a glass plate called a chassis is coated with a layer of animal fat, usually lard or tallow, which is left to set. Petals or whole flowers are then laid on the fat, and their scent diffuses into it over 1-3 days. The spent flowers are replaced with fresh ones until the fat reaches the desired degree of fragrance saturation. The pomade could be washed or soaked in ethyl alcohol to draw the fragrant molecules into the alcohol. The alcohol was then separated from the fat and waxes and allowed to evaporate, leaving the absolute. Enfleurage was the sole method of extracting the fragrant compounds of delicate flowers such as jasmine and tuberose, which would be destroyed or denatured by the high temperatures that other extraction methods require. It is now largely obsolete, superseded by more efficient techniques such as solvent extraction and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. Plant material can also be extracted with nonpolar hydrocarbons such as hexane to give a concrete. Extraction of the concrete with ethanol gives an absolute free of waxes and fats. Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction of flowers of the double-flowered variety gave a yield of 2.5%. Pressures of 18, 28 and 38 MPa and temperatures of 313, 323 and 333 K were tested, and a significant variation in chemical composition was found.
- CAS
- 8024-05-3
- Botanical
- Polianthes tuberosa L.; syn. Agave amica (Medik.) Thiede & Govaerts
- Appearance
- pure white waxy flowers
- Odour strength
- Intense
- Synonyms
- Polianthes tuberosa, Agave amica, Tuberosa amica
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Flash point
- > 200 °F (TCC)
- Specific gravity
- 0.920-0.980 at 25 °C
- Refractive index
- 1.480-1.520 at 20 °C
In Perfumery
It remains a popular floral note for perfumes, either in stand-alone tuberose fragrances or in mixed floral scents. It generally must be used in moderation because the essence is overpowering and can become sickly to the wearer. The characteristic tuberose compounds of supercritical extracts could be used in the perfume or fragrance industry. PREMIEREPEAU works it against type in Gravitas Capitale, where it is held back from blooming, woven through citron and shishito.