Crni kožni akord

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Bazne notePiramida

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Crni kožni akord kao sirovina za parfeme — Bazne note

Definicija

Black leather is a leather note that perfumers construct from several materials rather than take from leather itself. The scent of leather has traditionally been either strong and sweet-smoky, or more refined, leathery and woody with floral overtones.

CVETNI ZAČINSKI SLADAK KOŽNI TOPAO

Type: Akord
Olfactive family: Kožni

Instrumenti

Piramida

GGornje note

SSrednje note

BBazne note

Miris

Leather notes can take on smoky, tarry or burnt facets, or even shades of tobacco. Birch tar essence evokes a wood fire through its warm and smoky notes. Isobutyl quinoline smells very raw and powerful. It is a dry leather that also reveals green notes and may evoke asparagus. In current formulas leather appears as discreet leathery facets that are silkier and velvety, evoking suede with floral and apricot shades.

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Detaljno

Tinctures of leather have existed, but the leather note in perfumery is built from other materials that capture the essence of leather. The note may come from the sweet smokiness of birch tar, the animalic scent of castoreum, or the sweet leathery fragrance of cassie. Tobacco, oakmoss, labdanum, burned seashells or saffron can also be used to create a leather note.

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Styrax and labdanum, both resins, are further raw materials for leather facets. Cade essence is a leathery raw material obtained by distillation of the wood and roots of the cade tree, also called prickly juniper. Agarwood essence, the main constituent of oud wood, is used to work on leather notes. Immortelle also has a leather facet.

Birch tar

Birch bark tar is mainly composed of triterpenoid compounds of the lupane and oleanane family. Its most characteristic molecules are betulin and lupeol, which are also present in birch bark. Birch bark tar oil contains a large amount of phenol derivatives and terpenoid derivatives.

Castoreum

Castoreum is a yellowish exudate from the castor sacs of mature beavers. At least 24 compounds are known constituents of beaver castoreum. In perfumery, the term castoreum refers to the resinoid extract from the dried beaver castor tinctured in alcohol. The dried beaver castor sacs are generally aged for two or more years to mellow.

Quinolines

One isobutylquinoline, 6-(2-methylpropyl)quinoline, has the formula C₁₃H₁₅N and a molecular weight of 185.26.

Istorija

In 2000 BC, in Asia, leathers were treated and scented with kumquat tree bark. Tanners settled in Grasse in the 12th century for their leather and skin trade. The leathers of Grasse did not smell good, which greatly displeased the nobility. The glove-perfumers of Grasse reportedly offered a pair of scented gloves to Catherine de Medici. In 1614 the King introduced the title of Master Glove Perfumers, and Grasse became known worldwide as a tanner-perfumer city. Around 1759, taxes on leather and competition from Nice caused the leather industry in Grasse to decline, and perfume succeeded leather. The community of glove perfumers was dissolved in 1791.

Russia leather is a water-resistant leather, oiled with birch bark oil after tanning. The oil also deterred insect attack and gave a distinctive and pleasant aroma that was seen as a mark of quality in leather.

Leathery perfumes became less and less popular and declined from the 80s onwards, at the same time as animal notes.

Zanimljivosti

Bundles of 200-year-old leather hides were raised from a wreck, and the inner hides, protected by a thick coating of mud, proved to be supple, aromatic reindeer hides. Under Henry III, gloves were even worn to sleep.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Birch bark tar is made by dry distillation of birch tree bark. The distilled oil is dephenolized and washed in an alkaline medium before perfumery use. Castoreum is extracted with alcohol from the dried and crushed castor sacs.

Status prema standardima IFRA

Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

U parfemima

Castoreum is largely used for its note suggesting leather, and is typically compounded with other ingredients. Around the turn of the twentieth century, birch bark tar became a specialty fragrance material in perfumery, used as a base note to give a leathery, smoky note. It is used especially in the leather and tobacco genre, and to a lesser extent in chypres, typically together with castoreum and isobutyl quinoline.

Uloga u formuli

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