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ingredients savoir-faire

Gardenia: Why Perfumers Call It The Impossible Flower | Première Peau

By Camille Sorrel

Gardenia is the flower perfumery cannot capture. Steam distillation destroys it. Solvent extraction yields a product that smells almost nothing like the living bloom. CO2...

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ingredients terroir

Peony: The Mute Flower of Perfumery | Première Peau

By Margaux Tessier

Peony is the most popular flower in perfumery that does not actually exist in perfumery. Over 5,000 fragrances on major databases list it as a...

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ingredients terroir

Sandalwood: The 30-Year Tree Crisis | Première Peau

By Camille Sorrel

Sandalwood is the slowest bet in perfumery. Plant a tree today and your grandchildren harvest it. The heartwood of Santalum album, the species that produces...

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ingredients terroir

Frankincense: Sacred Smoke to Modern Crisis | Première Peau

By Noémie Faucher

Frankincense is the smell of prayer. Not metaphorically, literally. For five thousand years, across every major monotheistic religion and most polytheistic ones, human beings have...

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culture ingredients

Patchouli: From Hippie Cliché to Perfumery Icon | Première Peau

By Antoine Verdier

Patchouli is the ingredient people think they hate. Say the word at a dinner party and watch faces contract, a reflex memory of head shops,...

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ingredients savoir-faire

Calone: The Molecule That Invented Ocean | Première Peau

By Raphaël Dumont

Calone smells like the ocean. Except the ocean does not have a smell, not a single one. What we call "the sea" is dimethyl sulphide...

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ingredients terroir

Tuberose: The Night-Blooming Flower That Divides | Première Peau

By Camille Sorrel

Tuberose is not a rose. It is not a tuber. The name misleads twice, and the flower itself misleads a third time, by smelling so...

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ingredients terroir

Vetiver: The Root Holding It All Together | Première Peau

By Raphaël Dumont

Vetiver is the ingredient nobody talks about. It sits in the base of roughly one in three fine fragrances, doing the structural work that keeps...

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ingredients terroir

Osmanthus: The Flower the West Hasn't Found | Première Peau

By Margaux Tessier

Osmanthus is probably the most important flower most Westerners have never smelled. In China, where it is called 桂花 (guìhuā), it perfumes entire cities when...

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