Tonka bean perfume runs on coumarin, the crystalline molecule the seed of Dipteryx odorata releases as it dries, somewhere between hay, almond and pipe tobacco. Coumarin made the fougere family possible in 1882 and it still does most of the warm, powdery work in the base of a modern formula. Truffle perfume is rarer: the sulphurous, earthy molecules of Tuber magnatum reconstructed as an accord.

Albatre Sepia is the Premiere Peau tonka and truffle perfume, a 20 percent extrait de parfum by Florian Gallo and Gregoire Balleydier. Raw Alba white truffle is ground against ferric India ink, with Madagascar vanilla that never sweetens and tonka holding the floor. Six hours on skin and the fracture stays open.

Start with the 2 ml vial in the discovery set.