Acacia

NaturalFLOWERSfloral · sweet · warm

HeartPyramid

3/5Strength

396hTenacity

3Origins

Specimen

Acacia spp.

Definition

Wintergreen sharpness buried under honeyed powder and a violet hush. Cassie absolute — from the tiny yellow pompoms of Acacia farnesiana — is 47% methyl salicylate by weight, yet somehow smells less medicinal than cosmetic: old face powder, aniseed, warm skin, and something faintly fecal that keeps it from sweetness.

POWDERY ANISIC SWEET WARM VIOLET-LIKE ANIMALIC BALSAMIC SPICY

CASSIE CASSIE ABSOLUTE SWEET ACACIA HUISACHE VACHELLIA FARNESIANA

Type: Ingredient
Olfactive family: Florals
Subfamily: Powdery florals
Cluster: Mimosa-like powdery florals
Source: flower absolute
Chemical class: complex natural (absolute)

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

3/5Strength

Medium

odour strength

Tenacity on blotter

396hours · 17 days

1 h6 h24 h3 d7 d400 h

at 100 %

Producing countries

Egypt (primary) India France (Grasse — historical)

Scent

Honeyed, powdery, and distinctly anisic, with a violet-cosmetic quality from the ionone fraction — similar to of vintage face powder compacts, iris rhizome, and sweet tobacco. The methyl salicylate backbone is perceptible only as a faint medicinal sharpness buried deep under the sweetness. A cinnamic-spicy warmth sits underneath.

Compared to mimosa, cassie is darker, less green, more animalic. Compared to jasmine, cassie is drier and more powdery, less narcotic. Compared to orris, cassie is sweeter, less earthy, with a faintly fecal undertone that orris lacks. On skin, the animalic quality intensifies over hours — a warm, slightly dirty sweetness that refuses to stay polite.

In PREMIEREPEAU

DISCOVERY SET7 × 2 ml →EXTRAIT DE PARFUMThe seven extraits →

The Full Story

In perfumery, 'acacia' almost always means cassie absolute — the solvent-extracted product of the flowers of Acacia farnesiana (reclassified as Vachellia farnesiana in 2011). The small yellow pompom flowers, each barely a centimetre across, yield a chemically complex absolutes in the natural palette. GC analysis reveals a composition dominated by methyl salicylate (47.5%), anisaldehyde (17.3%), geraniol (9.8%), benzaldehyde (6.0%), geranial (2.8%), and geranyl acetate (3.3%). The characteristic 'cassie fingerprint' — what separates it from all other floral absolutes — comes from three unusual C11 compounds identified by Demole in 1969: 3-methyldec-3-en-1-ol (1.9%), 3-methyldec-4-en-1-ol (0.5%), and 3-methyldec-4-enoic acid. These molecules occur in almost no other natural material.

Cassie vs Mimosa

Cassie (A. farnesiana) must not be confused with mimosa absolute (from Acacia dealbata or A. decurrens). They are different materials with different scent profiles. Cassie is darker, more powdery-violet, heavily anisic, and distinctly animalic. Mimosa is lighter, greener, more hay-like, with prominent methyl anisate and heptanal. Both are expensive; they are not interchangeable. The word 'wattle' refers to Australian Acacia species — primarily A. dealbata and A. pycnantha — and should not be used as a synonym for cassie.

Sourcing

Acacia farnesiana is native to the Americas and now naturalised across the tropics. Commercial cassie absolute production is concentrated in Egypt, where shrubs have been cultivated for perfumery for over a century, and to a lesser extent in India. Southern France (Grasse) was a historical source, but production there has largely ceased. Annual global output of cassie absolute is estimated at roughly 100 kg — one of the smallest production volumes of any commercial perfumery material. The flowers are harvested December through February and must be processed immediately; volatile degradation is rapid.

The Methyl Salicylate Paradox

Nearly half the volatile fraction of cassie absolute is methyl salicylate — the molecule responsible for wintergreen flavour. Yet cassie does not smell like wintergreen. The anisaldehyde, ionones (alpha and beta), coumarin, and the C11 alcohols mask and redirect the salicylate into something powdery, warm, and violet-adjacent. This is one of the clearest demonstrations in perfumery of how a dominant molecule can be perceptually overridden by trace constituents.

—

Related: Mimosa

Did You Know?

The sesquiterpene alcohol farnesol — a key molecule in cholesterol biosynthesis and a perfumery ingredient in its own right — takes its name directly from this plant. When chemists first isolated the compound from Acacia farnesiana flower extract, they named it after the species, which itself was named after the Farnese Gardens in Rome. Tobias Aldini first described the plant in 1625 from specimens grown in those gardens, from seed collected in Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic) that had germinated in 1611.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Solvent extraction of the fresh flowers of Acacia farnesiana (syn. Vachellia farnesiana) yields a concrete. The concrete is washed with ethanol and filtered to produce cassie absolute. Yield is low: 1 kg of flowers produces 1-4 g of absolute. Historical enfleurage was also practiced but is commercially extinct. Flowers must be processed rapidly after harvest — volatile degradation is fast. Harvest season runs December to February. Egyptian and Indian grades are the principal commercial origins; southern France (Grasse) was a historical source but production there has largely ceased. Global annual production of cassie absolute is approximately 100 kg (PROSEA estimate, 1998), making it one of the rarest commercial absolutes. Cassie is NOT an essential oil — there is no steam-distilled product of commercial significance.

Formula: Complex natural mixture (key: methyl salicylate C₈H₈O₃)
CAS: N/A — natural extract, no single CAS
Botanical: Acacia spp.
Appearance: Pale brown viscous liquid to semi-solid
Odour strength: Medium
Lasting power: 396 hours at 100%
Synonyms: CASSIE CASSIE ABSOLUTE SWEET ACACIA HUISACHE VACHELLIA FARNESIANA

IFRA status

Restricted

Restricted by IFRA (51st Amendment, 2023). Critical effect: dermal sensitization. Recommended maximum: 2.0% in the fragrance concentrate. Restricted constituents include benzyl alcohol (<8%), geraniol (1%), eugenol (0.06%), and benzaldehyde (0.3%).

Physical properties

Flash point: > 200.00 °F TCC (> 93.33 °C)

In Perfumery

Cassie absolute functions as a heart-note modifier of notable complexity. Its dominant methyl salicylate content (47.5%) provides a sharp, wintergreen-medicinal backbone that is paradoxically masked by the anisaldehyde (17.3%) and ionone fractions into something powdery and violet-adjacent. This makes cassie a natural reinforcement for iris and violet accords — it can shade orris butter at lower cost, adding a honeyed, animalic dimension that orris alone lacks. The material is a fixative in the classical sense: its balsamic-sweet base (coumarin, benzoic acid derivatives) anchors lighter notes and extends their lifespan on skin. Cassie absolute blends structurally with orris, violet leaf, sandalwood, jasmine absolute, and labdanum. In amber compositions, it provides intimate warmth. In powdery florals, it acts as a bridge between clean aldehydic topnotes and animalic bases. IFRA restricts cassie absolute to 2.0% of the fragrance concentrate due to dermal sensitization risk. At these low concentrations, it functions as a modifier rather than a signature note — a few drops reshape an entire accord.

Role in the formula

01fixative

02modifier

03blender

04volume builder

Available as

absolute concrete