Ambrocenide

Semi-syntheticWOODS & MOSSESwoody · amber · smoky

BasePyramid

—Strength

—Tenacity

—Origins

Editorial noteWe own no rights to this material, its name or its trademark. This entry is independent editorial journalism, published under freedom of expression.

Specimen

Definition

Ambrocenide is an amber-woody fragrance molecule. It is a white crystalline material with an extremely powerful and long-lasting, woody, amber note.

WOODY SMOKY AMBER ANIMALIC DRY

Ambrocether

Type: Ingredient
Olfactive family: Woods
Subfamily: Dry woods
Cluster: Smoky woods
Source: Cedrene, a substance from the essential oil of cedars
Chemical class: Acetal

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

Scent

The odour is described as woody, amber and agarwood. It has a dry note of amber and is highly diffusive. In a 10 % dilution in dipropylene glycol it is described as an extremely powerful woody-ambery note. Further descriptions list the odour as ambery, wood and amber, and as a powerful amber with a woody, agarwood profile. Its odour type is woody.

In PREMIEREPEAU

DISCOVERY SET7 × 2 ml →EXTRAIT DE PARFUMThe seven extraits →

The Full Story

Background

Woody, ambery notes in perfume were once obtained from ambergris, a substance from the digestive tract of sperm whales that was difficult to obtain and expensive. Ambrocenide comes close to ambergris with an intense, long-lasting scent.

Chemistry and origin

Ambrocenide has the molecular formula C₁₈H₃₀O₂ and a molecular weight of 278.4. It is not found in nature. It is supplied as crystals and as dilutions, for example 10 % in dipropylene glycol.

Cedrene, a terpene, is a substance from the essential oil of cedars and the starting material for Ambrocenide. The conversion also gives other molecules of the product that lack the fragrance. These have the same molecular formula and the same atom linkage, but a different spatial arrangement.

A newer process was developed at the Leibniz Institute for Catalysis in Rostock, Germany, in collaboration with a fragrance house. It is highly selective, needs fewer reaction steps and gives a higher yield than the original process.

Sensory effects

Research has shown that ambrocenide induces trigeminal nerve reactions at a range of concentrations, felt as a burning or stinging sensation. This effect can occur even at low concentrations, and 77.08% of participants reported it. The effect is primarily attributable to ambrocenide itself rather than the solvent, ethanol.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Akigalawood · Asphalt · Burnt Match · Charred Wood · Cigarette · Coal · Cuban Cigar · Dry Wood

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Ambrocenide is prepared from cedrene epoxide via an acid-catalysed ring-opening reaction that gives cedrane diol. The diol is then reacted with acetone to give the acetal. The chemical conversion of cedrene to Ambrocenide conventionally proceeds in three stages.

Formula: C₁₈H₃₀O₂
CAS: 211299-54-6
Appearance: White crystalline material
Synonyms: Ambrocether

IFRA status

See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Physical properties

Boiling point: 302 °C @ 760 mm Hg (est)
Flash point: > 100 °C

In Perfumery

Ambrocenide is primarily used as a fixative and base note enhancer in high-end fragrance formulations. It is a powerful and long-lasting top to base booster. It lends power to woody and ambery accords, and at low use levels it gives radiance and enhances citrus and aldehydic notes. It propels musk notes to be perceived in the top notes and gives volume and strength to floral heart notes. Its olfactory stability in bleach is good, and the recommended use level is traces up to 2 %. Its stability is very good in soap and in APC cleaner liquid, and poor in citric-acid cleaner liquid.

Role in the formula

01signature note

02fixative

Available as

synthetic