Ambrostar

SyntheticMUSK, AMBER, ANIMALICamber · warm · musky
BasePyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
—Origins

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Specimen
Ambrostar perfume ingredient
Base
Definition

Ambrostar is an amber fragrance ingredient, an acetal with a cage structure. Its profile is woody and ambery.

WOODY FLORAL SWEET AMBER MUSKY ANIMALIC GOURMAND WARM
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Amber & musk
Subfamily
Amber notes
Cluster
Amber notes
Chemical class
Acetal (methanoazuleno dioxole) with a cage structure
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
—Strength
Very powerful
Very powerful
Tenacity on blotter
On the blotter it lasts for weeks

Scent

The smell is described as amber, wood, warm amber and animalic. Other descriptions list woody, ambergris, animalic, warm and powdery facets. It is also described as ambery, woody and mineral, with a dry, slightly salty radiance reminiscent of warm rocks by the sea.

The Full Story

Ambrostar is an acetal with a cage structure that is unusually complex for a fragrance material. It is a very large, very lipophilic molecule.

Origin and Production

The manufacturer's data give a GC purity of at least 98 %.

Chemistry

Chemically, Ambrostar is a methanoazuleno dioxole. Its odour threshold in air is 0.0004 μg/l.

Ambergris and Its Substitutes

Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance of a dull grey or blackish colour produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Perfume makers valued it as a fixative that lengthens the life of a scent, but synthetic ambroxide has mostly replaced it. Oxidation of ambrein, a relatively scentless terpenoid separated from ambergris, produces ambroxide and ambrinol, the main odour components of ambergris. Ambroxide is made from sclareol, a component of the essential oil of clary sage. A newer route to (-)-ambrox, the most prominent olfactive component of ambergris, starts from fermented farnesene and uses an engineered squalene hopene cyclase; compared with the sclareol route it reduces waste, solvent and energy consumption.

Handling

The liquid dissolves clear at once in ethanol, DPG and IPM. Because the material is very powerful, the working solution is 1 % and the solution for smelling is 0.1 %. In the finished fragrance 0.01 to 0.5 % is enough, and the manufacturer recommends traces up to 2 % of the formulation.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

The manufacturer gives a renewable factor of 75 %.

Formula
C₂₀H₃₄O₂
CAS
1357064-95-9
Appearance
Colourless to pale yellow liquid
Odour strength
Very powerful
Lasting power
On the blotter it lasts for weeks
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Physical properties
Boiling point
335.6 °C

In Perfumery

Ambrostar is a very powerful and long-lasting base note. It lays a warm, gentle ambergris-wood base with animalic depth under the composition and reinforces oud notes from within.

Role in the formula
01fixative
02modifier
03backbone
04signature note
05blender
06volume builder
Available as
standard form

See Also

5 notes