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Gromwell

GREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES  /  earthy · green · fresh
Gromwell
Gromwell perfume ingredient
CategoryGREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES
Subcategoryearthy · green · fresh
Origin
VolatilityHeart Note
BotanicalLithospermum erythrorhizon
AppearanceHerbaceous perennial with small white flowers; roots contain a deep red-purple pigment (shikonin)
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesChina, Japan, Korea
PyramidHeart

Earthy, root-like, faintly medicinal. Gromwell smells like digging in dry, mineral-rich soil — herbal and quietly astringent.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery

Scent

Dry, earthy, faintly bitter-herbal. The root smells like mineral-rich soil with a medicinal undertone — astringent and quiet. Less aromatic than vetiver, less sweet than orris root. A plain, honest earth note with traces of dried herb.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Dry earthy root, faint bitterness, mineral
After a few hours

After a few hours

Quieter, softer herbaceous quality, less astringent
After a few days

After a few days

Faint mineral-earth residue

The Full Story

Gromwell (Lithospermum spp.) is a genus of herbaceous plants in the borage family. The roots of several species — particularly Lithospermum erythrorhizon (purple gromwell, known as zicao in Traditional Chinese Medicine) — have been used for centuries as a dye and medicinal herb.

The root contains shikonin and its derivatives, which are responsible for the deep purple-red color and contribute to the faintly earthy, astringent scent. The above-ground parts have a milder, herbaceous-green quality.

Gromwell is not a standard perfumery material. When referenced in fragrance, it typically describes the earthy, mineral, root-like quality associated with the plant's underground parts — dry soil, faint bitterness, herbal astringency.

In composition, gromwell provides a grounding, earthy modifier — useful in soil accords, root-based compositions, and herbaceous blends seeking an apothecary character.

This note in Première Peau. Simili Mirage · Gravitas Capitale. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: Acronychia Pedunculata · Adoxal · Agave · Algae · Aloe Vera · Aromatic Notes · Asparagus · Avocado

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Shikonin from Lithospermum erythrorhizon was the first plant-derived secondary metabolite to be produced industrially by plant cell culture — a Japanese biotechnology breakthrough in 1983.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Extraction data not independently verified for perfumery applications. Lithospermum erythrorhizon root is traditionally macerated in oil for medicinal and cosmetic use. No standard steam distillation or solvent extraction process exists for perfumery-grade gromwell material.

Molecular FormulaComplex mixture — key compound: shikonin (C₁₆H₁₆O₅)
CAS NumberN/A — natural root extract (key compound shikonin CAS 517-89-5)
Botanical NameLithospermum erythrorhizon
IFRA StatusNo known restrictions
SynonymsLithospermum, Gromwell root
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
AppearanceHerbaceous perennial with small white flowers; roots contain a deep red-purple pigment (shikonin)

In Perfumery

Gromwell is a niche ingredient functioning as an earthy-herbal modifier. Not commercially available as an essential oil or absolute for mainstream perfumery. When used, it provides a dry, mineral, root-like quality to soil accords and apothecary compositions. The shikonin-containing root (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) has more olfactory interest than the leaf. Reconstructed using vetiver fractions, orris-type earthiness, and dry mineral notes.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.