Sea Buckthorn

NaturalFRUITS, VEGETABLES & NUTSsweet · tart · earthy
HeartPyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
4Origins
Specimen
Sea Buckthorn perfume ingredient
Heart
Hippophae rhamnoides
Definition

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is a spiny deciduous shrub of the family Elaeagnaceae.

SWEET TART EARTHY
sandthorn, sallowthorn, seaberry
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Fruity
Subfamily
Berry notes
Cluster
Mixed fruit notes
Source
fruit
Chemical class
vegetable oil (fatty acids, carotenoids, tocopherols, plant sterols)
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
—Strength
Very subtle
Very subtle
Producing countries
China Mongolia India Pakistan

Scent

The CO2 total extract has an aroma that is pleasantly subtle. Its aroma profile is mildly sweet, tart and earthy.

Terroir & Post-Harvest Process

The Full Story

Hippophae rhamnoides is native to cold-temperate regions of Europe and Asia. In western Europe, it is largely confined to sea coasts. They typically grow in dry, sandy areas. The female plants produce orange berries that are soft, juicy, and rich in oils.

Origin and Production

The berries are usually washed and then pressed, resulting in pomace and juice. The fruit pomace can be used to obtain oil, natural food colour (yellow/orange) or jam. In Asia, the fruit is harvested by hand, requiring about 1500 person-hours per hectare. Fruit harvest is the most time-consuming operation in growing H. rhamnoides. China is the largest agricultural producer of H. rhamnoides.

Chemistry

Sea buckthorn oil is a red-orange oil derived from sea buckthorn plants. Species belonging to this genus accumulate lipids in the mesocarp (the fruit pulp), so the oil can be extracted from either the seeds or the pulp. Oil content in the pulp is 1.5-3.0%, while in seeds, oil is 11% of the fresh weight. Seed oil is characterized by high contents of polyunsaturated fatty acids, while pulp oil contains monounsaturated fatty acids and carotenoids. Sea buckthorn pulp oil contains approximately 65% combined of the omega-7 monounsaturated fatty acid, palmitoleic acid, and the saturated fatty acid, palmitic acid. Sea buckthorn fruit oil is dark orange in color and has a thick consistency, whereas the seed oil is pale yellow. The high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids are also responsible for the relatively poor shelf life, as they cause sea buckthorn oil to turn rancid quickly. Carotenoids are the pigments that give the sea buckthorn berry its distinctive orange-red color. The main carotenoid is the provitamin A, beta-carotene. Beta-sitosterol is the major sterol compound throughout the berry, making up 57-83% of total sterols. The typical sourness of the fruit is due to high content of malic acid. The fruit has a high vitamin C content, approximately 400 mg per 100 grams.

Uses

The fruit has culinary uses, while its extracts, including its oil, are used in the cosmetics industry and within traditional medicine. The resulting oils (seed oil and pulp oil, also called fruit or berry oil) are used in dietary supplements, nutraceuticals, cosmetics and skin care products. Sea buckthorn oil is used in some shampoos and other hair care products. When the berries are pressed, the juice separates into three layers: a thick orange cream on top, a middle layer rich in saturated and polyunsaturated fats, and a bottom layer of sediment and juice. The leaves of the shrub can be air dried, eventually ground, and used for tea. Sea buckthorn berries are also used to produce rich orange-coloured ice-cream, with a melon-type taste and hints of citrus. Because of its tolerance against strongly eroded, nutrient-poor and sometimes salty soils, the plant has been used for land reclamation or as shelterbelt.

Did You Know?

The genus name Hippophae comes from Ancient Greek words meaning 'horse' and 'light'. It is due to the ancient Greeks' use of sea-buckthorn leaves as horse fodder to make their coats shine more.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Solvent extraction using hexane and supercritical CO2 are the most common mechanisms at industrial and laboratory scale.

Botanical
Hippophae rhamnoides
Appearance
Red-orange oil (fruit oil dark orange and thick; seed oil pale yellow)
Odour strength
Very subtle
Synonyms
sandthorn, sallowthorn, seaberry
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Physical properties
Specific gravity
0.929 g/mL (fruit oil, density)
Refractive index
1.402-1.430 (31.6 °C, fruit oil)

In Perfumery

In cosmetics, sea buckthorn extract serves to enhance the smell of a product and to perfume the skin. The CO2 extract is suggested for cosmetics and soapmaking.

Role in the formula
01perfuming agent
02colorant
03skin conditioner
Available as
seed oil pulp oil CO2 extract

See Also

7 notes