White Oud

AccordWOODS & MOSSESwoody · rich · balsamic
BasePyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
3Origins

Editorial noteWe own no rights to this material, its name or its trademark. This entry is independent editorial journalism, published under freedom of expression.

Specimen
White Oud perfume ingredient
Base
Aquilaria and Gyrinops (genera that produce agarwood)
Fantasy/Concept
Definition

White oud is a lighter, cleaner version of classic oud (agarwood), a note in the oud family. It reads as creamy and smooth, with a delicate woodiness.

WOODY POWDERY CREAMY FLORAL BALSAMIC WARM
Type
Accord
Olfactive family
Woods
Subfamily
Creamy woods
Cluster
Creamy woods
Source
wood
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
Producing countries
Cambodia India Vietnam

Scent

White oud is cleaner and more powdery than classic oud. It reads as creamy and smooth, with a delicate woodiness threaded through with subtle floral and balsamic whispers. It retains the woody warmth of true oud while shedding much of its animalic edge.

The Full Story

What white oud is

Classic oud can be dark, resinous and intensely smoky, and white oud is decidedly more wearable for those newer to the oud family. Oud is used in colognes, incense and perfumes.

The agarwood behind it

Agarwood is a resinous heartwood, and Aquilaria malaccensis is its major source. The Gyrinops tree can also produce agarwood.

Agarwood forms in the trunk and roots of trees penetrated by a beetle; the tree may then be infected by a mould and responds by producing a defensive resin. The resin increases the mass and density of the affected wood and changes its colour from a pale beige to yellow, orange, red, dark brown or black.

The aromatic qualities of agarwood are influenced by the species, geographic location, branch, trunk and root origin, length of time since infection, and methods of harvesting and processing. Since 1995 Aquilaria malaccensis, the primary source, has been listed in Appendix II of the trade convention CITES, and in 2004 all Aquilaria species were listed.

Composition of agarwood oil

More than 150 chemical compounds have been identified in agarwood oil. At least 70 of these are terpenoids in the form of sesquiterpenes and chromones, and no monoterpenes have been detected at all. Other common classes of compounds include agarofurans, cadinanes, eudesmanes, valencanes, eremophilanes, guaianes, prezizanes and vetispiranes.

Cost and adulteration

Agarwood is one of the most expensive woods in the world. In practice adulteration of the wood and oil is common, and because oud is so expensive there is a large market for diluting oud oil with patchouli or other chemical components.

Did You Know?

In natural forests, only about 7 out of 100 Aquilaria trees of the same species are infected and produce agarwood. Steam distillation of 70 kg of agarwood yields no more than 20 ml of oil.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Gaharu oil is normally extracted from lower-grade wood such as Grade C. Oil of gaharu, the wood also known as agarwood, is extracted by hydro-distillation, steam distillation, supercritical fluid extraction or solvent extraction. Hydro-distillation is the most popular of these methods. Supercritical fluid extraction gave a higher yield of gaharu oil in a shorter time than hydro-distillation, four hours against seven days.

Botanical
Aquilaria and Gyrinops (genera that produce agarwood)
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

Oud is generally used as a base note and is traditionally paired with rose. Few perfume houses use real oud in their creations because oud is very expensive and potent. Most brands have a creation based on or dedicated to oud, or on an accord of oud created through the use of certain chemical scent components. Gaharu oil is used as a base oil in perfumery and can be blended with other essential oils to give different pleasant odours. Agarwood oil is used in many oriental fragrances, where it sits at the heart of woody and leathery accords.

Role in the formula
01backbone
02signature note
03blender
04volume builder
Available as
synthetic accord fantasy note

See Also

7 notes