Ambreta

PrirodnaMOŠUS, AMBRA I ANIMALNI MIRISImošusni · topao · cvetni
Bazne notePiramida
4/5Jačina
—Trajnost
2Poreklo
Uzorak
Ambreta kao sirovina za parfeme
Bazne note
Abelmoschus moschatus
Definicija

Ambrette seed oil is a natural material obtained from the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus, a plant of the family Malvaceae. It is one of the few ingredients to contain a natural musk compound, ambrettolide.

CVETNI SLADAK PUDERAST MOŠUSNI TOPAO SVEŽ KREMAST
Musk mallow, ambrette seed, ambrette oil, abelmosk, muskdana, musk okra
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Ambrasti i mošusni
Source
seeds
Chemical class
complex natural
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
4/5Jačina
Visoka
jačina mirisa
Zemlje proizvođači
Ekvador Peru

Miris

The seeds have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance similar to that of musk. Ambrette seed absolute revolves around earthy facets, fleeting nutty notes, silky fruity undertones and liquor nuances. As it dries, it evolves into a powdery floral note of orris. The CO2 extract is intensely rich, sweet, nutty/seed-like and musky-floral, with nuances of Cognac, Clary Sage and Tobacco, underscored with subtle leather and animalic notes. The refined oil has the strong, musky odor of ambrettolide. At 10% in dipropylene glycol the odor is described as fresh, musk, amber, powdery, weedy, dried fruit and woody. At 1% it is musky and musty, berrylike, with raspberry and red licorice nuances.

Poreklo, etika i zamene

Detaljno

The plant

Abelmoschus moschatus is an aromatic and medicinal plant of the family Malvaceae, native to Asia and Australia. It is an evergreen shrub. It has been growing throughout India and is cultivated in China, West Indies and Indonesia. The plant grows on mountain slopes and in valleys. The yellow flowers with purple centres last only a day and soon give way to the fruit. The fruits are large, fuzzy capsules, green at first and brown when ripe, containing the ambrette seeds. The species has the conservation status Least Concern. The species name moschatus is scientific Latin for 'musk', a reference to the heavy fragrance of the seeds.

Harvest

The brown, ripe seed pods are harvested between July and November, depending on the region. The seeds are separated from the pods and dried in the sun for about two days to reduce humidity. They are then cleaned with a net to remove impurities and non-exportable ambrette seeds.

Chemistry

GC-MS analysis of ambrette seed oil revealed 35 compounds. The major components were farnesol acetate (51.45%) and ambrettolide (12.96%). A previous report gave 2E,6E-farnesyl acetate at 59.1%, hexadec-7-en-16-olide at 7.8% and decyl acetate at 5.6%. Ambrettolide is a lactone. Its IUPAC name is (8Z)-1-oxacycloheptadec-8-en-2-one, its formula is C₁₆H₂₈O₂ and its molecular weight is 252.39. Farnesol acetate is an ester of farnesol and acetic acid. The oil dissolves in fixed oils and does not dissolve in glycerin or propylene glycol. The oil showed an inhibitory effect against Bacillus subtilis, Staphylococcus aureus and Enterococcus faecalis in an antibacterial assay.

Other uses

The seeds are used for various therapeutic purposes, which include treating headaches, cramps, muscular aches and pains, depression and other nervous complaints. Different parts of the plant are used in Ayurvedic herbal medicine, including as an antispasmodic. The most widespread use of the seeds is to flavour coffee and tea, mainly in the Middle East. Unripe pods, leaves and new shoots are eaten as vegetables. In industry the root mucilage provides sizing for paper. Tobacco is sometimes flavoured with the flowers.

Zanimljivosti

Young indigenous women would string the seeds on threads and wear them as decoration on their arms. The seeds were also used to fatten up chickens.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Ambrette seed oil is obtained by steam distillation of the dried, crushed seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus. Because of its long-chain fatty acids, the crude product is a waxy mass, also called ambrette beurre. Removal of the fatty acids with alkali gives a clear yellow to amber liquid. For the absolute, the seeds are first distilled to extract the fragrant molecules. The resulting essential oil is then refined by molecular distillation to remove some of the earthy notes and enhance the fruity and musky facets.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: farnesol acetate; ambrettolide C₁₆H₂₈O₂)
CAS
8015-62-1
Botanički naziv
Abelmoschus moschatus
Izgled
Clear yellow to amber liquid
Jačina mirisa
Jak
Sinonimi
Musk mallow, ambrette seed, ambrette oil, abelmosk, muskdana, musk okra
Status prema standardima IFRA
Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Fizička svojstva
Tačka ključanja
298 °C @ 755 mm Hg
Tačka paljenja
>230 °F
Relativna gustina
0.898–0.920 @ 25°C
Indeks prelamanja
1.4680–1.4850 @ 20°C

U parfemima

With its musky notes, ambrette seed absolute works from the head to the base of a fragrance, giving it texture and a long-lasting effect. In flavour work, a 10% tincture, made by macerating the crushed seeds in 65% ethanol, is used mainly in liqueurs, vermouths and bitters.

Uloga u formuli
01fiksativ
02pojačivač difuzije
03modifikator
04okosnica
05sredstvo za podizanje
06sirovina za stapanje
Oblici na tržištu
eterično ulje

Pogledajte i

7 nota
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