Calendula

NaturalFLOWERSfloral · green · warm
HeartPyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
2Origins
Specimen
Calendula perfume ingredient
Heart
Calendula officinalis
Definition

Calendula officinalis, the pot marigold, is a flowering plant in the daisy family, Asteraceae. Its flower absolute has a warm, herbal and slightly resinous aroma with floral nuances.

FLORAL HERBAL EARTHY SPICY WARM RESINOUS
pot marigold, Mary's gold, common marigold, Scotch marigold, ruddles
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Florals
Subfamily
Classic florals
Cluster
Classic florals
Source
flowers
Chemical class
triterpenoid esters, carotenoids, flavonol glycosides, saponins
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
Producing countries
Spain France

Scent

A chemical database gives its odour type as herbal, with a marigold odour. Another description gives it as soft, herbaceous, floral, earthy and slightly spicy. The first smell has strong herbaceous notes, and a more floral and delicate scent appears slowly. There is a hint of earthiness in the floral bouquet. Most cultivars of the plant have a spicy aroma.

The Full Story

About the plant

Calendula officinalis, the pot marigold, is a short-lived aromatic herbaceous perennial that grows to 80 cm tall. Its inflorescences are yellow or orange. It is probably native to southern Europe, but its long history of cultivation makes its precise origin unknown.

The flower absolute

The INCI name of the flower absolute is Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract. The scent of the absolute differs from that of calendula-infused oil, which is more subtle and harmonious.

Chemistry

The petals and pollen contain triterpenoid esters, as well as the carotenoids flavoxanthin and auroxanthin, which are antioxidants and the source of the yellow-orange coloration. The flowers also contain flavonol glycosides, triterpene oligoglycosides, oleanane-type triterpene glycosides, saponins and a sesquiterpene glucoside. The flowers are a rich source of lutein, containing 29.8 mg/100g.

Uses

The florets are edible. They are often included in salads for their color or added to dishes as a garnish in lieu of saffron. A dye extracted from the flower gives shades of honey, gold, orange, light brown and vibrant yellow. Calendula officinalis oil is still used medicinally as an anti-inflammatory and a remedy for healing wounds. Evidence for the effectiveness of calendula ointments on minor cuts, burns and skin irritation is weak. Laboratory studies on plant extracts suggest that calendula extracts may have antiviral, antigenotoxic and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro.

History

Flowers were used in ancient Greek, Roman, Middle Eastern and Indian cultures as a medicinal herb and as a dye for fabrics, foods and cosmetics. Ancient Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. Calendula flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times. In the middle ages, Calendula flowers were used for liver obstructions, snake bites and to strengthen the heart. Marigold did not appear in pharmacopoietic literature before the late 13th or early 14th century. The names marigold and Mary's gold were given by the English people to honour Mary, mother of Jesus.

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Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

The absolute is made by solvent extraction. It is obtained from the flowers of Calendula officinalis. One supplier names the petals as the part used.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: lutein; saponins; flavonol glycosides)
CAS
84776-23-8
Botanical
Calendula officinalis
Appearance
yellow to orange
Synonyms
pot marigold, Mary's gold, common marigold, Scotch marigold, ruddles
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

Perfuming and skin conditioning are among the cosmetic functions of the extract.

Role in the formula
01fixative
02modifier
Available as
absolute infused oil

See Also

7 notes