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Inula

GREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES  /  earthy · floral · warm
Inula
Inula perfume ingredient
CategoryGREENS, HERBS AND FOUGERES
Subcategoryearthy · floral · warm
Origin
VolatilityHeart Note
BotanicalInula helenium
Appearancedeep blue clear liquid
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesChina, France, Germany, India, Turkey
PyramidHeart

Camphoraceous, herbal, faintly fruity-sweet. Inula (elecampane) smells like a medicinal herb cabinet with a surprise note of ripe banana underneath the camphor.

  1. Scent
  2. Terroir & Origins
  3. The Full Story
  4. Fun Fact
  5. Extraction & Chemistry
  6. In Perfumery

Scent

Camphoraceous, herbal, with an unexpected fruity-sweet undertone. The alantolactone provides medicinal bitterness; the banana ester adds sweetness. Like opening an old apothecary drawer containing dried roots — camphor, herbs, and an inexplicable whiff of ripe fruit. More complex than thyme, less clean than eucalyptus.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Camphoraceous herbal, faintly fruity-sweet, medicinal
After a few hours

After a few hours

Less camphor, more herbal-warm, fruity note fades
After a few days

After a few days

Dry herbal-bitter residue, faint warm camphor

Terroir & Transformation

Indicative 2025 wholesale prices.

The Full Story

Inul a (Inul a helenium, elecampane) is a large perennial herb native to Central Asia and naturalized across Europe. The root is the aromatic part, producing an essential oil dominated by alantolactone and isoalantolactone — sesquiterpene lactones that provide a particular camphoraceous, slightly bitter-herbal character.

What makes inul a unusual is the presence of isoamyl acetate — the banan a ester — among its volatiles. This gives the root oil a faintly fruity-sweet quality underneath the camph or, creating an unexpected duality of medicinal and tropical-sweet.

The plant's name derives from Helen of Troy — legend holds that inula grew where her tears fell. It has been used in European herbal medicine for over 2,000 years, primarily for respiratory conditions. The root was also used to flavor absinthe and vermouth.

In perfumery, inul a absolute provides a particular herbal-camphoraceous note with a fruity edge — useful in compositions seeking complexity beyond standard herbal materials.

This note in Première Peau. Simili Mirage · Gravitas Capitale. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: 4 Methylanisole · Almaciga · Arnica · Assam Tea · Calycanthus · Camphor · Canvas · Carvone

Did You Know?

Did you know?
The alantolactone in inula root is a potent anthelmintic (anti-parasitic) — it was used to treat intestinal worms in medieval European medicine. Modern research has confirmed its activity against several helminth species in vitro.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Steam distillation or solvent extraction of dried Inula helenium roots. The oil partially solidifies due to crystallization of alantolactone. CO2 extraction preserves more of the fruity top notes. Root must be dried before distillation. Wild-harvested in Central and Eastern Europe; some cultivation in France.

↑ See Terroir & Origins for origin-specific methods.

Molecular FormulaComplex natural mixture (key: alantolactone C₁₅H₂₀O₂, isoalantolactone)
CAS Number97676-35-2
Botanical NameInula helenium
IFRA StatusPROHIBITED — IFRA bans inula helenium oil in fragrances due to severe dermal sensitization risk (alantolactone content)
Synonymselecampane, horse-heal
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
Appearancedeep blue clear liquid
Boiling Point200.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg

In Perfumery

Inul a (elecampane) provides a camphoraceous-herbal heart note with a unique fruity (banan a ester) quality. Functions in herbal, medicinal, and complex aromatic compositions. The alantolactone/isoalantolactone chemistry gives it a bitter, camph or-like foundati on. The isoamyl acetate trace adds unexpected sweetness. Used sparingly — powerful and particular. Pairs with other herbal materials (wormwood, sage) in bitter-aromatic compositions. IFRA may restrict usage due to sesquiterpene lactone sensitizati on potential.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.