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Phenylacetaldehyde

FLOWERS  /  floral · green · rosy
Phenylacetaldehyde
CategoryFLOWERS
Subcategoryfloral · green · rosy
Origin
VolatilityTop Note
BotanicalN/A — synthetic (also found naturally in Hyacinthus orientalis)
Appearancecolorless to pale yellow clear oily liquid
Odor StrengthHigh
Producing CountriesChina, Europe, United States
PyramidTop

Green, hyacinth-like with a piercing, slightly narcotic floralcy. Phenylacetaldehyde smells like crushed hyacinth flowers in a greenhouse — intense, green-sweet, with a honeyed, almost alarming brightness.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery

Scent

Intensely green-floral, hyacinth-like. Piercing, sweet, with a narcotic, almost alarming brightness. Honey-like undertone. More intense than florhydral, more green than hydroxycitronellal, less clean than linalool. Powerful and penetrating — must be used with restraint. On blotter, the aldehyde character evolves toward a gentler, honey-green residue.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Piercing green-floral burst. Hyacinth-like, narcotic, intense.
After a few hours

After a few hours

Honeyed-green heart. Intensity moderates. Floral sweetness emerges.
After a few days

After a few days

Honey-green residue. Moderate tenacity despite high volatility.

The Full Story

CAS 122-78-1. An aromatic aldehyde with a powerful, green-floral, hyacinth-like scent. Phenylacetaldehyde occurs naturally in many flowers (hyacinth, narcissus, rose, linden) and foods (chocolate, wine, cheese). It is a important molecules for constructing hyacinth and narcissus accords.

The scent is intense — green, sweet, and piercingly floral. It has a narcotic quality similar to of standing in a greenhouse full of hyacinths. At high concentrations, it can be almost overwhelming; at proper dosage, it provides a luminous, green-floral brightness. The molecule is reactive and unstable — it oxidizes easily and can polymerize — which makes it challenging to work with in formulation.

Phenylacetaldehyde is also the primary volatile responsible for the scent of buckwheat honey — its presence in honey at high levels gives buckwheat honey its particular, almost unpleasant intensity.

This note in Première Peau. Nuit Elastique · Rose Monotone. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Phenylacetaldehyde is the molecule that makes buckwheat honey smell so different from clover or acacia honey. Its concentration in buckwheat honey can be 100x higher than in lighter honeys — which is why buckwheat honey has a pungent, almost overwhelming character that divides opinion sharply.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Produced synthetically by Wacker oxidation of styrene, or by decarboxylation of phenylpyruvic acid. Found naturally in many flowers and foods but not commercially isolated from natural sources. The molecule's instability (tendency to oxidize and polymerize) means that freshness of the synthetic batch is important.

Molecular FormulaC8H8O
CAS Number122-78-1
Botanical NameN/A — synthetic (also found naturally in Hyacinthus orientalis)
IFRA StatusNo known restrictions
Synonyms2-PHENYLACETALDEHYDE · PHENYLACETALDEHYDE
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthHigh
Lasting Power400 hour(s) at 100.00 %
Appearancecolorless to pale yellow clear oily liquid
Boiling Point193.00 to 195.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg
Flash Point189.00 °F. TCC ( 87.00 °C. )
Specific Gravity1.02500 to 1.03500 @ 25.00 °C.
Refractive Index1.52500 to 1.53200 @ 20.00 °C.

In Perfumery

Top-to-heart modifier in hyacinth, narcissus, and green-floral compositions. Phenylacetaldehyde provides the intense green-floral character that defines hyacinth accords (alongside cinnamyl alcohol and florhydral). In narcissus reconstructions, it provides the narcotic, green-honey quality. Used at very low concentrations — typically 0.05-0.5% — due to its extreme potency. The molecule's instability requires careful formulation; it is often used as a Schiff base (e.g., with methyl anthranilate) to improve stability.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.