Reseda

NaturalFLOWERSfloral · green · sweet
HeartPyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
—Origins
Specimen
Reseda perfume ingredient
Heart
Reseda odorata
Definition

Reseda (Reseda odorata), called mignonette, is an annual herb kept in gardens for its fragrant flowers. The flowers have a sweet, violet-like and fruity odor with a green nuance.

FLORAL GREEN SWEET VIOLET FRUITY HERBAL
Mignonette, garden mignonette, common mignonette, Egyptian mignonette, sweet reseda
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Florals
Subfamily
Green florals
Cluster
Green-fresh florals
Source
flowers, leaves and stems
Chemical class
Botanical extract
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase

Scent

The odor of the flowers is intense, sweet and violet-like, fruity with a green nuance. The absolute is described as herbal, green, sweet, watercress and spicy. Nineteenth-century authors praised its clean, violet-like fragrance. Its scent is sweet and penetrating.

The Full Story

The plant

Reseda (Reseda odorata) is a species of flowering plant in the reseda family, known by many common names, including mignonette. It is an annual herb with branching erect stems to 80 centimeters in maximum height. The fragrant flower has six white to yellowish or greenish petals, the upper ones each divided into three narrow, finger-like lobes. At the center of the flower are up to about 25 stamens tipped with large dangling orange anthers. The plant has long been kept as an ornamental plant for its fragrant flowers.

Origin and cultivation

The plant is probably native to the Mediterranean Basin, but it can sometimes be found growing in the wild as an introduced species in many parts of the world. It was known to Pliny and the Romans. To produce highly odoriferous flowers, mignonette requires a rich, fertile, clean soil with plenty of sun and irrigation. Mignonette is grown as an annual in most areas, though it may be biennial in Zone 10, and it reseeds readily. Bees are fond of mignonette because it produces plenty of nectar.

Scent chemistry

The theaspirones are known as natural constituents of tobacco aroma and, like the ionones, are derived from carotenoid precursors.

History and name

Mignonette was reportedly first introduced to the south of France, where it was welcomed under the name mignonette. Further records of mignonette being cultivated and dispersed in gardens do not appear until 1752, when seed was grown in botanical gardens in Chelsea, England. Mignonette quickly became very popular in London, where it was grown in pots on balconies. Its scent in the streets was believed to protect the residents from the ill effects of bad air coming from the river and trash heaps. Some people with delicate noses thought its odour too powerful for the house.

Napoleon is reputed to have collected seed for Empress Joséphine's garden at the Château de Malmaison. The empress certainly did have mignonette grown in her gardens. In the Victorian language of flowers, mignonette means "your qualities surpass your charms."

The French name mignonette means "little darling". The origin of the name "mignonette" remains a mystery. The Latin name is derived from resedare, meaning "to assuage", because the plant was believed useful in healing bruises and pains. People historically believed that the plant had magical powers and that its fragrance could ward off certain diseases carried through the air.

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Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Mignonette has been grown in the Grasse region for perfumery, by extraction. Reseda absolute is an extract of the flowers, leaves and stems of the sweet mignonette, Reseda odorata.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: 8,9-dehydro-4,5-dihydrotheaspirone; 8,9-dehydrotheaspirone)
CAS
91721-98-1
Botanical
Reseda odorata
Appearance
dark orange paste
Synonyms
Mignonette, garden mignonette, common mignonette, Egyptian mignonette, sweet reseda
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

The essential oil of the flowers has been used in perfumes. The recommended usage level for reseda absolute pomade is up to 0.6000 % in the fragrance concentrate. Reseda absolute pomade is not recommended for flavor use.

Role in the formula
01modifier
02signature note
03lifting agent
04blender
05volume builder
06freshness
Available as
absolute absolute pomade

See Also

7 notes