Vanilla perfume is the most worn gourmand family in the world and the most often cheapened. Real vanilla absolute from Madagascar is balsamic, boozy and faintly smoky; the vanillin that replaces it in mass market bottles is only the sweet top note of that story.

Insuline Safrine is the Premiere Peau vanilla perfume, a 20 percent extrait de parfum by Claire Liegent in which Madagascar vanilla is set against Greek saffron, Moroccan bitter almond and clove, with spun sugar candying the heat. Albatre Sepia uses a vanilla that never sweetens under white truffle and India ink. Neither is a dessert.

Vanilla, tonka and clove are among the most tenacious materials in a base, so both wear eight hours and more. Both come as 2 ml vials in the discovery set.