Choya Nakh

NaturalPOPULAR & WEIRDsmoky · marine · leathery
BasePyramid
—Strength
240hTenacity
1Origins
Specimen
Choya Nakh perfume ingredient
Base
Definition

Choya nakh is a traditional Indian attar produced by dry distillation of Murex opercula. Its aroma is intense, smoky and saline-oceanic.

SMOKY MARINE LEATHERY ANIMALIC
Opercula oil
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Leather
Subfamily
Smoky leathers
Cluster
Smoky leather
Source
gastropod opercula
Chemical class
Dry distillate of roasted opercula
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
—Strength
Intense
Intense
Tenacity on blotter
240hours · 10 days
1 h6 h24 h3 d7 d400 h
Producing countries
India

Scent

It has dry leathery and inky facets, underpinned by a creamy sandalwood base and sweet amber warmth. Beneath the smoke lie an oceanic, mineral note and a briny, mossy depth with faint animalic warmth. Well diluted, it shows salt, dry moss and warm mineral amber. In aged choya nakh the harsher smoke recedes and the amber-marine character deepens.

The Molecule — Manufacturers & Variants

The Full Story

An operculum is a corneous or calcareous structure like a trapdoor that exists in many, but not all, groups of sea snails and freshwater snails. It serves as a sort of trapdoor that closes the aperture of the shell when the soft parts of the animal are retracted. The most common kind is made of a thin to rather thick corneous protein material that is yellow to brownish in color. The opercula of neogastropods are made of a strong protein similar to the keratin of fingernails.

Chemical analysis of opercula smoke revealed aromatic phenols, which act as fragrance stabilisers. Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry revealed a predominance of aromatic compounds in the operculum smoke. Cresol and phenol were consistently present as major constituents, making up 20-40% of the smoke extracts. Simple phenols like cresol could contribute to the musty, leathery note of both castoreum and operculum smoke. Burnt on its own, good-quality operculum reportedly smells of castoreum or other animal musks, while poorer quality smells of burnt hair. Pyridine was detected only in the smoke of untreated opercula, where it was a dominant compound (over 30%).

Unguis odoratus is a Latin term for a traditional incense ingredient used in many cultures and derived from opercula of certain gastropods. Operculum powder is an important ingredient in Chinese and Japanese incense making. The opercula are traditionally treated with vinegar, alcohol and water in order to remove any fishy smell. Neogastropod opercula are still used today in the incense manufacturing industries of India. Murex opercula are still commonly used in traditional North African and Middle Eastern bakhoor.

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Related: Amberwood · Andiroba · Bakhoor · Balsamic Notes · Benzoin Resinoid · Benzyl Benzoate · Benzyl Salicylate · Birch Tar

Did You Know?

In ancient Sanskrit medical texts, incense made from Muricidae opercula is said to be like a "prostitute" or "market place charmer". Opercula are also an important ingredient in traditional Sudanese perfumery, particularly as smoke baths for new brides or married women.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

In modern India it is described as a dry distillation of the roasted opercula mixed with a base oil, usually cedarwood oil.

Formula
Complex natural mixture
Appearance
Brown viscous liquid
Odour strength
Intense
Lasting power
Lasts 240 hours on a smelling strip
Synonyms
Opercula oil
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

In modern India, a few drops of opercula oil are mixed with other incense ingredients. In Chinese and Japanese incense, the clean operculum powder is used as a scent fixative, in a technique similar to that used in perfumes with certain plant resins.

Role in the formula
01modifier
02signature note
03volume builder
04fixative
Available as
oil

See Also

7 notes