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Cosmos Flower

FLOWERS  /  floral · fresh · green
Cosmos Flower
Cosmos Flower perfume ingredient
CategoryFLOWERS
Subcategoryfloral · fresh · green
Origin
VolatilityHeart Note
BotanicalCosmos bipinnatus
AppearancePink, white, or crimson petals (no commercial extract)
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesMexico
PyramidHeart

Light, airy, and faintly chocolatey. Cosmos sulphureus smells of cocoa and vanilla; Cosmos bipinnatus is greener and simpler. A wildflower that whispers where others shout.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery

Scent

Barely there. A whisper of chocolate-vanillic sweetness (from Cosmos atrosanguineus) or a breath of green-honeyed air (from C. bipinnatus). Like leaning into a meadow of cosmos flowers on a still morning and catching, just for a second, something soft, sweet, and almost imaginary.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Faint, sweet, chocolatey-vanillic (C. atrosanguineus) or green-honeyed (C. bipinnatus). Barely detectable.
After a few hours

After a few hours

Nearly imperceptible. A soft, warm, vanillic trace if present at all.
After a few days

After a few days

Gone. The note is extremely volatile and light.

The Full Story

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus, Cosmos sulphureus) is a wildflower native to Mexico, now naturalized worldwide. The genus belongs to the daisy family (Asteraceae). In perfumery, cosmos is a rare and unusual note because the flower's scent is almost imperceptibly faint -- most people cannot smell it without pressing their nose directly into the bloom.

The chocolate cosmos (Cosmos atrosanguineus) is the most aromatically notable species: its dark burgundy flowers produce a genuine chocolate-vanilla scent, driven by vanillin and related compounds. This species is nearly extinct in the wild (all cultivated specimens derive from a single surviving clone) and is not extracted for perfumery.

The more common Cosmos sulphureus has a faint, sweet, slightly cocoa-like character. Cosmos bipinnatus is even lighter -- greenish, barely perceptible, with a honey-like whisper.

In perfumery, cosmos is a fantasy accord that aims to capture this extreme delicacy: a floral note so light it barely exists. Perfumers build it using trace amounts of chocolate/vanillic elements, transparent florals, and green notes at very low concentrations.

This note in Première Peau. Nuit Elastique · Rose Monotone. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Cosmos atrosanguineus (chocolate cosmos) is functionally extinct in the wild. Every cultivated specimen worldwide is a clone of a single plant collected in Mexico in 1902. It cannot produce seed and is propagated exclusively by root division or tissue culture.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Not commercially extracted. Cosmos flowers yield no viable essential oil or absolute. The note is a fantasy accord built from vanillic, green, and transparent floral materials.

Molecular FormulaN/A - natural blossom
CAS NumberN/A — no commercial essential oil or absolute
Botanical NameCosmos bipinnatus
IFRA StatusNo known restrictions
SynonymsCOSMOS · MEXICAN ASTER · GARDEN COSMOS
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
AppearancePink, white, or crimson petals (no commercial extract)

In Perfumery

Heart note in delicate floral, wildflower-meadow, and transparent compositions. Functions as a near-subliminal sweetness -- it adds a barely perceptible cocoa-vanillic or green-honeyed warmth without weight. Built from trace vanillin, transparent musks, light green notes, and honey accords. Used where extreme delicacy is the goal.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.