Green Notes

AccordGREENS, HERBS & FOUGERESgreen · fresh · fruity

Seven perfumesOne of them is looking at you

HeartPyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
—Origins

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Specimen
Green Notes perfume ingredient
Heart
Fantasy/Concept
Definition

Green notes are scents that evoke wet grass, cut stems or crumpled leaves. Galbanum, a gum resin, and cis-3-hexenol, a green leaf volatile, are among the materials that create them.

FLORAL GREEN FRUITY HERBAL FRESH BITTER
Type
Accord
Olfactive family
Green
Subfamily
Green notes
Cluster
Green leafy notes
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase

Scent

Green notes also bring to mind dew, grass after the rain and the vegetal freshness of a summer evening. cis-3-Hexenol has an intense grassy-green odor of freshly cut green grass and leaves. cis-3-Hexenal smells similar to cis-3-hexenol but even stronger. cis-3-Hexenyl acetate has a sharp, fruity-green, sweet, banana-like odor. Galbanum resin has an intense green scent accompanied by a turpentine odor. Its initial notes are very bitter, acrid and peculiar, followed by a complex green, spicy, woody, balsam-like fragrance. When diluted, galbanum has variously been described as reminiscent of pine, evergreen, green bamboo, parsley, green apples, musk, or simply intense green. Galbanum is also reminiscent of fresh peas with a damp and peppery accent. Violet leaf does not give off a floral scent, but rather a green, powdery and earthy perfume.

The Full Story

The fragrance wheel lists Green as a subfamily of the Fresh family, with galbanum and green notes as examples. Green leaf volatiles are named after their typical odor of freshly cut green leaves.

Green leaf volatiles are organic compounds released by plants. They include C6 aldehydes such as (Z)-3-hexenal and n-hexanal, and derivatives such as (Z)-3-hexenol and (Z)-3-hexen-1-yl acetate. The smell of freshly cut grass is mainly caused by the emission of these compounds. Most healthy plant species do not release them, but large amounts are emitted when plants are wounded. Their synthesis starts within seconds of tissue damage. They also have antimicrobial properties that can prevent infection at the site of injury. In plants, cis-3-hexenal forms from linolenic acid via a hydroperoxide, through the action of a lipoxygenase followed by a hydroperoxide lyase.

cis-3-Hexenol, also known as leaf alcohol, has the CAS number 928-96-1. Most plants produce it in small amounts. The global production volume of cis-3-hexenol is about 3000 tonnes. cis-3-Hexenal, also known as leaf aldehyde, is an unsaturated aldehyde with the formula CH₃CH₂CH=CHCH₂CHO. It is one of the major volatile compounds in ripe tomatoes. It is relatively unstable and isomerizes into the conjugated trans-2-hexenal.

Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin from certain Persian plant species of the genus Ferula, chiefly Ferula gummosa and Ferula rubricaulis. Galbanum-yielding plants grow plentifully on the slopes of the mountain ranges of northern Iran. Galbanum contains about 8% terpenes, about 65% of a resin which contains sulfur, about 20% gum and a very small quantity of umbelliferone. It also contains α-pinene, β-pinene, limonene, cadinene, 3-carene and ocimene. Galbanum is frequently adulterated with pine oil.

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Related: Alpha Pinene · Angelica · Angelica Root · Angelica Root Oil · Artemisia · Barrenwort · Beachheather · Behini Tree

Did You Know?

Corn plants that are being fed on by caterpillars release green leaf volatiles that attract wasps, which then attack the caterpillars. Undamaged neighboring plants have been shown, in some cases, to respond to green leaf volatile signals.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Galbanum absolute is a brown viscous liquid obtained by solvent extraction from the gum oleo-resin of the plant.

IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

Galbanum absolute acts as a base note in perfume compositions and is one of a handful of green base notes of natural origin. Because it is perceived as simultaneously green and sweet, it finds a more specific role to create a special effect in chypre green, floral green, chypre coniferous, woody fougère and aquatic fougère compositions. Galbanum is occasionally used in the making of modern perfume. In fragrance formulation, cis-3-hexenol is essential for creating green, fresh and outdoor-inspired scents. cis-3-Hexenol is also used in flavors.

Role in the formula
01modifier
02signature note
03lifting agent
04blender
05naturalizer
06freshness
Available as
fragrance accord

See Also

8 notes