Lemon Zest

NaturalCITRUSfresh · green

TopPyramid

4/5Strength

24hTenacity

5Origins

Specimen

Citrus limon

Definition

Zesty and refreshing, lemon zest adds a bright citrus note to perfumes.

CITRUS GREEN SWEET HERBAL WARM FRESH

lemon peel, lemon oil

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

4/5Strength

High

odour strength

Tenacity on blotter

24hours

1 h6 h24 h3 d7 d400 h

Producing countries

Italy (Sicily, Calabria) Spain Argentina United States (California) France (Grasse)

Scent

Lemon zest has a bright and tangy aroma that is unmistakably fresh and bracing. It has a sharp citrus quality that can be likened to biting into a ripe lemon. The initial impression is clean and crisp, with a hint of sweetness that balances its acidity.

Scent Evolution

As the scent develops, the sharpness of lemon zest softens slightly. The brightness persists, but it becomes layered with subtle green and herbal undertones. This evolution has the complexity of lemon zest.

Signature Accords

After a day on a blotter, lemon zest maintains its freshness while integrating with other notes. The citrus character remains evident, but it may take on a slightly warmer aspect as it melds with sweeter or woodier base notes. This lasting quality enhances its versatility.

Terroir & Expressions

The Full Story

Lemon zest in perfumery is the cold-pressed peel oil of Citrus limon (CAS 8008-56-8) — the same expressed material as the culinary 'zest' produced by rasping the outer yellow layer of the rind. The oil is captured by mechanical pressure on the rind's oil glands, with no heat; the volatile chemistry survives the process intact.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Chemistry

Lemon peel oil is limonene-dominant (~65–75%, CAS 5989-27-5) [A], with γ-terpinene (~6–11%), β-pinene (~6–12%), citral (geranial + neral, ~2–5%), neral and geranial each providing the lemon-aldehydic angle, and small fractions of citronellal, linalool, geraniol and α-pinene. The phototoxic furocoumarin bergapten is present at modest levels — IFRA limits apply to expressed lemon oil in leave-on products.

Sources & Notes

[A] PubChem CID 22311 — d-limonene, CAS 5989-27-5. The dominant terpene of lemon peel oil. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/22311.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Cold pressing

Formula: Limonene C₁₀H₁₆ (major component, 60–70%) · Citral C₁₀H₁₆O
CAS: 84929-31-7
Botanical: Citrus limon
Appearance: colorless to pale yellow liquid
Odour strength: High
Lasting power: 24 hours
Synonyms: lemon peel, lemon oil

IFRA status

Restricted

Restricted. Expressed lemon oil is phototoxic due to furocoumarin content (bergapten, oxypeucedanin); IFRA limits use in leave-on products unless furocoumarin-free (FCF) grade is used.

Physical properties

Specific gravity: 0.79000 to 0.84000 @ 25.00 °C.
Refractive index: 1.36000 to 1.37000 @ 20.00 °C.

In Perfumery

In perfumery, lemon zest is primarily used as a top note, providing an immediate burst of freshness that can invigorate a fragrance. Its bright and cheerful scent is excellent for opening a composition, setting a lively tone that captures attention. It can also harmonize well with floral notes, adding a refreshing lift to bouquets. The use of lemon zest in fragrances can create a sense of cleanliness and brightness, making it particularly popular in summer scents and those designed to carries a feeling of rejuvenation. Its smooth blending ability with a wide variety of other notes makes it a staple in many perfumers' creations, underscoring its importance in fragrance formulation.

Role in the formula

01modifier

02backbone

03signature note

04lifting agent

05blender

Available as

expressed oil

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