Earthy, damp, and softly phenolic. The scent is of forest floor after rain -- decomposing leaves, wet bark, the mineral smell of lichen-covered rock. Less aggressively phenolic than Evernyl, less woody than Clearwood. A quiet, grounding earthiness.
Evolution over time
Immediately
Immediately
Damp earthy moss, slightly phenolic
After a few hours
After a few hours
Deep forest-floor warmth, wet bark
After a few days
After a few days
Persistent earthy grounding, soft and low
The Full Story
Moss Flox is a synthetic ingredient designed to replicate or extend the character of natural oakmoss (Evernia prunastri), which has been severely restricted by IFRA and EU regulations due to the allergenic compounds atranol and chloroatranol found in the natural extract.
The moss-oakmoss character is essential to two of perfumery's foundational families: the chypre and the fougere. Without a mossy base, these structures collapse. Synthetic moss materials like Moss Flox, Evernyl, and Clearwood allow perfumers to maintain these architectural forms while complying with modern safety regulations.
Moss Flox contributes an earthy, damp, slightly phenolic character that carries the forest floor -- fallen leaves, wet bark, lichen-covered stone. It is less powerful than Evernyl but offers complementary qualities for building multi-layered moss accords.
The IFRA restriction on oakmoss absolute forced the reformulation of hundreds of classic fragrances. Perfumers now reconstruct the 'oakmoss' impression using combinations of 3-5 synthetic materials -- a jigsaw puzzle that still cannot perfectly replicate the original natural extract.
Extraction & Chemistry
Extraction method: Fully synthetic.
Molecular Formula
N/A — no standardized commercial extract
CAS Number
N/A — Phlox subulata does not yield a commercial oil with a registered CAS
Botanical Name
Phlox subulata (Moss Phlox / Creeping Phlox)
IFRA Status
No known restrictions
Synonyms
PHLOX SUBULATA · CREEPING PHLOX · MOSS PHLOX
Physical Properties
Odor Strength
Medium
Appearance
Colorless to pale yellow liquid
In Perfumery
Moss Flox functions as a moss-building block in chypre, fougere, and woody-mossy compositions. Used alongside other synthetic moss materials (Evernyl, Clearwood) to reconstruct the oakmoss character that natural extracts can no longer legally provide at traditional concentrations. Provides earthy grounding in the base.