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Narcissus

FLOWERS  /  floral · green · sweet
Narcissus
Narcissus perfume ingredient
CategoryFLOWERS
Subcategoryfloral · green · sweet
Origin
VolatilityHeart Note
BotanicalNarcissus spp.
Appearancedark green brown oily liquid
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesFrance, Spain, Morocco
PyramidHeart

A dark, viscous absolute extracted from Narcissus poeticus flowers — green, narcotic, and indolic. The scent opens with wet stems and cut grass, then turns heavy with benzyl acetate and indole: a jasmine-adjacent white-flower effect undercut by hay and something faintly animalic. One of perfumery's most expensive naturals, harvested by hand from alpine meadows during a few weeks in late spring.

  1. Scent
  2. Terroir & Origins
  3. The Full Story
  4. Fun Fact
  5. Extraction & Chemistry
  6. In Perfumery

Scent

Three-act scent with uncommon depth for a single material. The opening is green and bright — wet daffodil stems, crushed leaves, a watery coolness like a meadow after rain. Within minutes the narcotic heart emerges: indole and benzyl acetate combine into a heavy, sweet, jasmine-adjacent floral that borders on hypnotic. This is not clean jasmine — it is thicker, more vegetal, with a faintly decaying quality that tuberose shares but narcissus pushes further. The dry-down settles into warm hay, honey, earthy musk, and a lingering animalic undertone. At full concentration the indole can feel overwhelming; diluted below 1%, the material reveals extraordinary beauty. More green and earthy than jasmine, more narcotic than lily of the valley, less waxy than tuberose. The scent of a spring meadow remembered in darkness.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Bright green stems, wet grass, crushed leaves. A watery coolness — spring meadow in full sun after rain.
After a few hours

After a few hours

Narcotic indolic heart. Heavy, sweet, jasmine-adjacent. Benzyl acetate and indole in slow rotation. Hay and honey warmth emerging.
After a few days

After a few days

Warm hay, earthy musk, animalic residue. Quietly persistent. The ghost of a spring meadow, remembered in the dark.

Terroir & Origins

Indicative 2025 wholesale prices.

The Full Story

Narcissus absolute is obtained from the flowers of Narcissus poeticus — the poet's narcissus, sometimes called pheasant's eye — a white-flowered species native to the mountain meadows of central and southern Europe. The primary production regions are the Auvergne (Massif Central) and the alpine valleys of the Alpes-Maritimes in France. The flowers are hand-picked during a brief season in May and June, when the meadows bloom at 800–1,500 metres altitude.

Extraction

The blooms are processed by solvent extraction — typically hexane — to produce a waxy concrete. This concrete is then washed with ethanol and filtered to yield the absolute: a dark greenish-brown, intensely fragrant liquid. Steam distillation is not viable; the heat destroys the delicate ester and indole fractions that define narcissus. Yields are extremely low: roughly 500–1,000 kg of fresh flowers produce one kilogram of concrete, and the absolute yield from the concrete is approximately 30–40%.

Composition

The absolute is a complex mixture. Key odorants include benzyl acetate (sweet, floral), indole (heavy, narcotic, jasmine-like), linalool, phenylethyl alcohol (rosy), cinnamyl alcohol, eugenol, methyl benzoate, and trans-bet a-ocimene (green, herbaceous). Gamm a-undecalactone, a peach-skin-like lactone, has also been identified in narcissus oils (Handbook of Essential Oils, Baser & Buchbauer, 2010). The interacti on between the bright green-floral esters and the dark indolic base is what gives narcissus its singular character — simultaneously innocent and carnal.

In the Palette

Narcissus absolute is rare in modern formulation, used almost exclusively in fine fragrance at minute dosages. Its cost rivals that of orris butter and jasmine absolute from Grasse. Synthetic reconstructions built around benzyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, and indole can approximate the effect, but lack the green-haylike complexity of the natural. Ernest J. Parry noted in 1922 that phenylacetic aldehyde was 'extremely useful for the reproduction of all odours of this and the narcissus type' — a reconstruction strategy still employed today.

This note in Première Peau. Nuit Elastique · Rose Monotone. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Did You Know?

Did you know?
The name likely predates the myth. Plutarch connected 'narkissos' to the Greek 'narke' — numbness, torpor, the same root that gives us 'narcotic.' The plant's alkaloid-rich bulbs are genuinely toxic (Pliny noted their emetic and purgative effects), and the scent itself contains indole, a compound whose heavy, almost stupefying quality at high concentration may have inspired the association. The Greeks placed narcissus flowers on funeral pyres and at gravesites — flowers of Persephone, gateway between the living and the dead. Whether the myth of the boy who drowned in his own reflection was invented to explain a flower already named for numbness, or the other way around, remains an open question in classical scholarship.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Solvent extraction of Narcissus poeticus flowers. Blooms are hand-harvested during a brief window in May–June from alpine meadows in the Auvergne and Alpes-Maritimes regions of France, at 800–1,500 m altitude. The flowers are extracted with hexane to produce a waxy concrete, which is then washed with ethanol to yield the absolute. Yields are extremely low: roughly 500–1,000 kg of fresh flowers per kilogram of concrete. Steam distillation is not used — heat destroys the delicate indolic and ester-rich composition. The absolute is a dark greenish-brown, viscous liquid with intense floral-green potency.

↑ See Terroir & Origins for origin-specific methods.

Molecular Formulacomplex mixture (multiple constituents incl. benzyl benzoate, indole)
CAS Number68917-12-4
Botanical NameNarcissus spp.
IFRA StatusNo dedicated IFRA standard. Restrictions apply indirectly through regulated constituents: cinnamyl alcohol (49th Amendment), eugenol, benzyl benzoate, and geraniol each have individual IFRA category limits. Formulators must ensure total allergen contributions from narcissus absolute remain within constituent-level thresholds.
SynonymsDAFFODIL · JONQUIL
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
Lasting Power400 hours at 100.00%
Appearancedark green brown oily liquid
Flash Point167.00 °F. TCC ( 75.00 °C. )
Specific Gravity0.92400 to 0.99800 @ 25.00 °C.

In Perfumery

Heart note of notable depth and cost. The green-narcotic-haylike character is irreplaceable in high-end florals where a naturalistic, living quality is needed — not the polished smoothness of jasmine, but something wilder and less predictable. Narcissus connects to the indolic white-flower family (jasmine sambac, tuberose) but adds a green dimension those materials lack. In compositions it provides a complete olfactory arc within a single ingredient: green-floral opening, narcotic heart, warm hay-like base. Blends naturally with jasmine, tuberose, hay absolute, green notes, and musky-woody bases. Cost limits its use to prestige formulations; most commercial 'narcissus' accords are synthetic reconstructions.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.