Ylang-Ylang

NaturalFLOWERSfloral · tropical · sweet
HeartPyramid
4/5Strength
—Tenacity
2Origins
Specimen
Ylang-Ylang perfume ingredient
Heart
Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook.f. & Thomson
Definition

Ylang-ylang is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of Cananga odorata, a plant of the custard apple family Annonaceae. Its scent is sometimes described as heavy and sweet, with a slightly fruity floral character.

FLORAL GREEN SPICY SWEET FRUITY WARM CREAMY TROPICAL
ilang-ilang, Macassar oil tree, perfume tree
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Florals
Subfamily
Narcotic florals
Cluster
Narcotic white florals
Source
flowers
Chemical class
Essential oil
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
4/5Strength
High
odour strength
Producing countries
Comoros Madagascar

Scent

The fragrance is rich and deep with notes of rubber and custard, and bright with hints of jasmine and neroli. The aroma is also described as sweet, floral, balsamic, green, spicy, animal, woody, waxy and leathery.

One perfumer describes the smell as jasmine, but more heightened and stronger, and almost fruity. The same perfumer notes a whiff of pear and coconut at the start, then a hint of carnation and of clove as the fragrance settles. The Extra grade has a powerful floral and intensely sweet odor. The third grade has a sweet-floral odor with a balsamic-woody base note. The oils have a characteristic floral, spicy, balsamic odor. The complete oil has a powerful, intensely sweet but soft balsamic floral odor with a floral woody undertone. The oil also smells exotic, floral, sweet and slightly fruity, and it combines a jasmine-like floral note with fruity undertones, a green powdery note and spicy woody facets.

Terroir & Origins

The Full Story

Origin

Cananga odorata is a fast-growing evergreen tree reaching up to 30 m in height. It is native to areas from Indochina to northeastern Australia and has been introduced to many other regions. The flowers have six yellow petals up to 9 cm long. The species was first described as Uvaria odorata in 1785 by Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. In 1855, the British botanists Joseph Dalton Hooker and Thomas Thomson transferred it to the genus Cananga. The genus Cananga contains only two species, Cananga odorata and Cananga brandisiana. For a long time the cananga tree and the ylang-ylang tree were considered the same species; a later study placed the true cananga in the form macrophylla and ylang-ylang in the form genuina. The clusters of black fruit are an important food item for birds.

Name

The name Cananga is derived from the Malay word kananga. 'Ylang-ylang' is the Spanish spelling of the Tagalog name for the tree, ilang-ilang.

Composition

In the Extra fraction, p-cresyl methyl ether makes up 5–16%, methyl benzoate 4–9%, linalool 7–24%, benzyl acetate 5.5–17.5% and geranyl acetate 2.5–14%. The other fractions contain increasing amounts of sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, which are less volatile, such as β-caryophyllene, germacrene D and (E,E)-α-farnesene. Together, sesquiterpene hydrocarbons such as caryophyllene, germacrene-D and (E,E)-α-farnesene amount to more than 70% of ylang-ylang III. As distillation proceeds, the specific gravity and the ester content of the fractions decrease, whereas the optical rotation and the refractive index increase. The last fractions consist chiefly of sesquiterpenes and therefore have little odor value. Components such as p-cresol, eugenol and isoeugenol matter for the odor even though they are present only in low concentration. The Extra fraction has the deepest color, probably because of phenolic substances. The Extra oil loses its delicate, strong odor if it is exposed to light. In one GC-MS analysis the main compounds included linalool (15.23%), benzyl benzoate (11.39%), geranyl acetate (9.46%) and methyl benzoate (7.64%). Geographical origin, climate and seasonal variations could influence the composition of the oil.

Production

The Comoros archipelago produces between 30 and 40 tonnes of the oil each year, ahead of Madagascar, mainly on the island of Anjouan, which has 350 distilleries. The oil made up 29% of the Comoros' annual export in 1998. Forest cover in the Comoros has shrunk by 25 per cent in 20 years, and distilling the oil in old alembics takes a lot of wood.

History

The flower was first distilled in 1860 in Manila, Philippines. From 1860 to 1950, the exploitation of ylang-ylang was concentrated in the Philippines. Production was then taken to the Indian Ocean islands, including Madagascar and the Comoros archipelago, which are the main producers today. The French introduced the tree on the island of Reunion in the 1700s. In the early 1900s its cultivation spread to the nearby islands of Comoros and Madagascar.

No single synthetic molecule captures ylang-ylang. Reconstructions combine benzyl acetate, linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, isoeugenol, and farnesol, but the result reads as a sketch — technically plausible, olfactively flat. The natural oil's complexity stems from the interaction of hundreds of min or constituents that synthetics cannot economically replicate. In Nuit Elastique by PREMIEREPEAU, ylang-ylang First absolute from Bourbon sits at the heart alongside jasmine sambac and grandiflorum, anchoring the narcotic floral accord.

This note in PREMIEREPEAU. Nuit Élastique. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Ylang-ylang oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowers and separated into grades according to when the distillates are obtained. Four fractions are collected at progressively longer distillation times and are called Extra, I, II and III. Occasionally, a first fraction called Extra superior is collected. Ylang Ylang Complete is the essential oil obtained from a complete, uninterrupted distillation. The flowers are picked every morning and steam-distilled that same day to preserve the freshness of the fragrance. Flowers can only be harvested by hand, so producers cut the tall branches and leave only those up to two metres high. Distillation may last up to 24 hours and yields approximately 1% essential oil. The Extra fraction represents approximately 35 to 40% of the total distilled yield and is the most valuable product. A flower is ready to be picked when its petals turn from pale green to yellow and a red dot appears in the centre. The Extra oil is the volatile oil distilled in the first few hours, and the other grades are obtained by continuing the steam distillation and withdrawing the fractions according to specific gravity.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: linalool; p-cresyl methyl ether; methyl benzoate; geranyl acetate)
CAS
8006-81-3
Botanical
Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook.f. & Thomson
Appearance
Pale to dark yellow liquid
Odour strength
Medium to strong
Synonyms
ilang-ilang, Macassar oil tree, perfume tree
IFRA status
Restricted

Restricted — IFRA Standard « Ylang ylang extracts » (Amendment 49)

Physical properties
Boiling point
264 °C
Flash point
190 °F
Refractive index
1.5020 at 20 °C

In Perfumery

The essential oil is used as a perfume, often for soap making. The perfumes are oriental- or floral-themed. Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit, and wood scents. It pairs well with jasmine and is used a lot in floral perfumes. It is used at the heart of floral compositions to accompany a jasmine or solar floral accord, and in certain leathers with exotic facets. The Extra grade is highly recommended for the production of high-grade perfumes. Ylang-ylang Extra and I are used mostly in fine fragrances, while II and III are employed in soap perfumes. The complete oil brings fruity top notes evoking banana, opulence in the heart note, and harmonious notes with smoky, lasting effects in the base note. It blends with oriental accords, especially with patchouli and cocoa extracts. Nuit Elastique by PREMIEREPEAU explores this territory: ylang-ylang First absolute from Bourbon anchors the narcotic night-flower heart alongside jasmine sambac, grandiflorum, rose turque, and champaca rouge.

Role in the formula
01modifier
02signature note
03blender
04volume builder
Available as
essential oil (Extra) essential oil (I, II, III) essential oil (Complete) absolute CO₂ extract

See Also

6 notes