Gardenia

NaturalWHITE FLOWERSfloral · white · creamy
HeartPyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
4Origins
Specimen
Gardenia perfume ingredient
Heart
Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis
Definition

Gardenia is the white flower of Gardenia jasminoides, also called cape jasmine. Its flowers have a sweet and elegant scent.

FLORAL GREEN SWEET WARM FRESH CREAMY TROPICAL
Cape jasmine, cape jessamine, kuchinashi
Type
Ingredient
Olfactive family
Florals
Subfamily
White florals
Cluster
Narcotic white florals
Source
flower
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
Producing countries
China Japan Vietnam Taiwan (native range)

Scent

In the gardenia species most commonly grown in gardens, the flowers may have a pleasant and strong, sometimes overpowering scent that may be more noticeable at night. The odor quality of the absolute de enfleurage was similar to the floral scent of fresh gardenia.

The Full Story

Gardenia jasminoides, commonly known as gardenia and cape jasmine, is an evergreen flowering plant in the coffee family Rubiaceae. It is native to the subtropical and northern tropical parts of the Far East. The flowers can be quite large, up to 10 cm in diameter, and loosely funnel-shaped. Blooming in summer and autumn, they are among the most strongly fragrant of all flowers.

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Botany and names

The white flowers have a matte texture, in contrast to the glossy leaves. Wild plants range from 30 centimetres to 3 metres in height. Its native habitat is forest and undergrowth along streams, and sloping and hilly terrain up to an altitude of 1,500 metres. The names cape jasmine and cape jessamine derive from the earlier belief that the flower originated in the Cape of Good Hope. In Japan the plant is called kuchinashi.

Chemistry

Linalool, α-terpineol, cis-3-hexenyl tiglate and α-farnesene are the main volatile components of Gardenia jasminoides. In an essential oil distilled from fresh flowers, the main aroma components were linalool at 34.65% and α-farnesene at 10.24%. Among the components above 0.5% of that oil, alcohols accounted for 53.80%, followed by terpenes at 16.01%. As of 2020, at least 162 compounds had been identified in Gardenia jasminoides. The iridoids genipin and geniposidic acid can be found in the fruit.

Other uses

In China, the petals are used in tea for their aroma, while a yellow-red dye used in textiles and sweets has been extracted from the pulp of the fruit. In traditional Chinese medicine the plant, called zhi-zi, was a folk remedy for jaundice, oedema and fevers. Gardenia flowers are commonly used as floral offerings at Buddhist temples in Tropical Asia.

Did You Know?

Crocetin, a compound usually obtained from Crocus sativus, can also be obtained from the fruit of Gardenia jasminoides. The fully matured fruit contain crocin at 4.5 mg of total crocetin derivatives per gram of dry weight, and can be used as a yellow dye.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Petals were macerated for 24 hours in absolute ethanol, n-hexane or petroleum ether, and the filtered solvent fraction was concentrated to give a concrete. The concretes were viscous semisolids: yellow from absolute ethanol, deep yellow from petroleum ether and greenish yellow from n-hexane. For enfleurage, fresh petals were strewn in a single layer on a base of spermaceti wax and palm oil, in a wax-to-oil ratio of 3:2. The trays were kept at room temperature for 24 hours, and the spent flowers were replaced daily with fresh flowers for 14 days. The resulting pomade was extracted with denatured alcohol, and the absolute de pomade was concentrated under reduced pressure at 35 °C to yield an absolute de enfleurage. The absolute de enfleurage was a pale viscous liquid with a fresh gardenia odor. Enfleurage gave the aroma extract that 43 volunteers preferred, significantly better than the solvent extractions. Hydro-distillation of fresh flowers yielded on average 0.07 g of essential oil from 1 kg of Gardenia jasminoides flowers.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: linalool; α-terpineol; cis-3-hexenyl tiglate; α-farnesene)
Botanical
Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis
Appearance
Pale viscous liquid
Synonyms
Cape jasmine, cape jessamine, kuchinashi
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

The relaxing and refreshing sensations of the gardenia odor suggest applications in body care, cleansing products and perfume. The study of the aroma profile is meant to widen the use of gardenia from traditional medicine to perfumery, in answer to a growing interest in floral fragrances.

Role in the formula
01signature note
02modifier
03blender
Available as
absolute synthetic reconstruction enfleurage (rare)

See Also

7 notes