Aromatične note

AkordZELENE NOTE, BILJE I FUŽERIaromatičan · svež · zelen
Gornje notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
—Poreklo
Uzorak
Aromatične note kao sirovina za parfeme
Gornje note
Fantazijska/konceptualna
Definicija

Aromatic notes are a facet of fragrance that designates fresh herbs. Typical materials such as lavender and rosemary smell herbaceous and camphorated.

ZELEN ZAČINSKI SVEŽ BILJNI
aromatic facet, aromatic family
Type
Pojam
Olfactive family
Aromatični
Source
Fresh herbs
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note

Miris

Aromatic notes are not bitter like oakmoss, but not typically syrupy sweet either.

In Individual Materials

Lavender is herbaceous, camphorated and medicinal, and its powerful note evokes southern gardens and summer. Rosemary is fresh, herbaceous and camphorated, and woody in its evolution. Lavandin is more camphorated than lavender, fresh, a little woody and spicy. Mugwort is herbaceous, fresh, camphorated and bitter, with a slightly poisonous note. Oregano, tarragon (to a lesser degree), basil and marjoram can be described as quasi-spicy. Eucalyptol has a fresh camphor-like odor. Thymol has a pleasant aromatic odor.

Detaljno

The aromatic family comprises fresh green herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and lavender. Once the notes are dried, they are called spices. The aromatic facet is divided into three categories: lavender notes, minty notes and anise notes. Lavender notes are found notably in lavender, lavandin, rosemary, thyme, sage and mugwort.

Materials and Origin

Lavender is native to the Mediterranean basin, and the south of France remains its main producer. Lavandin is a hybrid lavender variety obtained by crossing Lavandula Vera and Lavandula spica. Rosemary is cultivated today in Spain, Morocco and Italy, and it needs arid and rocky soils to develop. Sage is native to southern Europe. Mugwort, from the Latin artemisia, is a perennial herbaceous plant originating from North Africa and the Mediterranean basin. Sage, rosemary and lavender fall outside the botanical definition of an herb, because they do not die down each year and have woody stems.

Chemistry

Lavender oil is not a pure compound; it is a complex mixture of phytochemicals, including linalool and linalyl acetate. Rosemary essential oil contains about 150 phytochemicals, among them camphor, which makes up 10-20% of the oil. Eucalyptol, also called cineole, is a colorless monoterpenoid liquid and a bicyclic ether.

Aromatic and Fougère Fragrances

In fougère perfumes the top notes are sweet, with the scent of lavender flowers. Aromatic fougère, a derivative of this class, contains additional notes of herbs, spice and/or wood. In the 2010 version of the fragrance wheel, the Fresh family has an Aromatic subfamily, exemplified by lavender and aromatic herbs. The Aromatic family has four subfamilies: Aquatic Aromatic, Fruity Aromatic, Green Aromatic and Spicy Aromatic.

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Zanimljivosti

Sage notably allows obtaining ambrox, a material used instead of ambergris in fragrances. Ambrox is produced from the oxidation/reduction process of sclareol, obtained from sage.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Lavender essence is obtained by steam distillation, and lavender absolute by volatile solvent extraction. Lavandin essence is obtained through steam distillation. Rosemary essence is obtained by distilling its leaves and flowers with steam. Steam distillation is the most common technique for sage and yields sage essence, while sage absolute can be obtained by volatile solvent extraction. Thymol is conventionally extracted by hydro-distillation.

Sinonimi
aromatic facet, aromatic family
Status prema standardima IFRA
Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

U parfemima

Aromatics are an especially major group for men but much less so for women. They are rarely alone and are often coupled with citrus and spicy notes for fuller accords. The aromatic facet links to all olfactory families, and particularly well to the fougère, woody, oriental and hesperidic families. Mint and lavender are examples of top notes. Bergamot is often present to add sharpness to the lavender top-note of fougère perfumes. Rosemary tends to be found in Eaux de Cologne, men's perfumes, perfumes of the hesperidic family and fragrances with fresh notes. In oriental perfumes rosemary can also be found in top notes. Sage offers a lot of tonicity to perfumes and is often used in men's perfumes. Sage is long associated with fougère families and can also be found in absolute form in chypre and oriental perfumes. Mugwort is mainly present in men's perfumes. Lavandin is mainly used in detergents and soaps and generally in functional perfumery.

Uloga u formuli
01modifikator
02sredstvo za podizanje
03sirovina za stapanje
04graditelj volumena
05svežina
Oblici na tržištu
essence absolute

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Duvan topao · sladak · kožni Žalfija aromatičan · biljni · ambrast Ruzmarin aromatičan · biljni · kamforni Čaj zelen · aromatičan · suv Paprika šišito zelen · začinski · vegetabilan Zelena čili papričica zelen · začinski · svež Pejotl zelen · zemljan · aromatičan
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