Apsolut kastoreuma
Warm, animalic, leathery-vanillic. Castoreum is a beaver secretion: dark, complex, with leather, birch tar, and vanilla qualities. One of perfumery's great animalic materials.
- Type
- Sirovina
- Olfactive family
- Ambrasti i mošusni
- Source
- animal-derived
- Chemical class
- complex natural (absolute)
Miris
Molekul: proizvođači i varijante
Detaljno
Zanimljivosti
Castoreum's vanilla-like quality comes from the beaver's diet. Beavers eat birch and poplar bark containing salicin, which is converted to vanillin-like aromatics. The scent is literally a product of the animal's diet.
Dobijanje i hemija
Način dobijanja
Natural: dried castor sacs extracted with solvent, usually hot alcohol. Chilling the extract before evaporation yields the absolute.
- Formula
- N/A — complex natural extract (contains castoramine, phenols, salicin derivatives)
- CAS
- 8023-83-4
- Botanički naziv
- Castor canadensis / Castor fiber
- Izgled
- dark brown to reddish-brown viscous liquid to semi-solid
- Trajnost
- 400 hour(s) at 10.00 % in dipropylene glycol
- Sinonimi
- CASTOREUM BEAVER CASTOREUM
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Tačka paljenja
- > 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
U parfemima
Base note providing complex animalic depth. Contains castoramine, phenols, vanillin-like compounds. Bridges leather, amber, musk, and vanilla. Its use declined during the 20th century, and reconstructed castoreum bases are sold as substitutes.
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