Tamni pačuli
Dark patchouli is a patchouli essential oil from the leaves of Pogostemon cablin, often distilled in metal stills to give it a warm, dark colour. Its aroma is extremely rich, deep and earthy.
- Type
- Sirovina
- Olfactive family
- Drvenasti
- Source
- leaves
- Chemical class
- essential oil
Miris
Detaljno
Zanimljivosti
Patchouli oil improves with age: when properly stored, its aroma becomes deeper, rounder and more refined over time. It takes 50 kg of dry leaves to produce 1 kg of essential oil.
Dobijanje i hemija
Način dobijanja
Patchouli oil is obtained by steam distillation of the dried leaves and twigs, which first requires rupturing the cell walls by steam scalding, light fermentation or drying. The leaves are dried in the sun before distillation; this step, called curing, starts a fermentation process. Steam distillation yields between 1.5 and 2.5 percent of oil. The oil is often distilled in metal stills to give the final product a warm, dark colour. A light grade is distilled in non-reactive stainless steel vessels and is free of iron coloration. One view holds that boiling the dried leaves and fermenting them for a period of time gives the best oil. Leaves and twigs may be harvested several times a year.
- Formula
- Complex natural mixture (key constituents: patchoulol C₁₅H₂₆O; norpatchoulenol; pogostone)
- CAS
- 8014-09-3
- Botanički naziv
- Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth.
- Izgled
- Rich amber-colored, transparent, somewhat viscous mobile liquid
- Sinonimi
- patchouli oil, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Tačka paljenja
- 100 °C
- Nota
- Patchoulol, the main component of the oil, melts at 56 °C (racemic) and boils at 287-288 °C.
U parfemima
Patchouli oil is used widely in modern perfumery, and also in scented personal products such as bay rum and in industrial products such as paper towels, laundry detergents and air fresheners. It is used as a base note and blends well with most other oils. It is regarded as one of the finest fixatives, with outstanding tenacity. As a fixative it is used in small doses in any blend, and as a fundamental note in ambers and heavy florals. It is an essential element in the structure of a chypre and holds an important place in powdery, woody and fougère compositions. Its aroma is best approached diluted, on a scent strip or combined with other essential oils, especially florals, rather than at full strength.
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