Vertofix Coeur

SintetičkaDRVA I MAHOVINEdrvenast · ambrast · kedar

Bazne notePiramida

3/5Jačina

—Trajnost

—Poreklo

Uzorak

Bazne note

Definicija

Vertofix Coeur is a synonym of acetyl cedrene, a dry woody-amber aroma molecule. Its odour is dry woody-amber with a clear cedarwood-like direction.

DRVENAST AMBRAST TOPAO

Acetyl cedrene, Acetylcedrene

Type: Sirovina
Olfactive family: Drvenasti
Chemical class: Ketone

Instrumenti

Piramida

GGornje note

SSrednje note

BBazne note

3/5Jačina

Srednja

jačina mirisa

Trajnost na mirisnoj traci

High

Miris

The material smells of a polished woody base with a dry cedarwood impression and a warm musky-amber undertone. Its secondary nuances are musky, warm, slightly ambered, waxy and softly resinous. The texture is dry, smooth and dense, and persistent rather than airy or sparkling.

The scent is calm, masculine, stable and persistent. Its diffusion is moderate, with more value in body, depth and drydown persistence. It is drier and more cedar-like than Iso E Super and less creamy than sandalwood materials.

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Detaljno

Acetyl cedrene is a liquid ketone used as a raw perfumery material, a single aroma molecule rather than a finished perfume. It is soluble in alcohol and insoluble in water. Its INCI name is Acetyl Cedrene and its EC number is 251-020-3.

Its IUPAC name is 1-[(1R,2R,5S,7R)-2,6,6,8-tetramethyl-9-tricyclo[5.3.1.01,5]undec-8-enyl]ethanone. Iso E Super is a different material, with the formula C₁₆H₂₆O, a molar mass of 234.38 g/mol and other CAS numbers, among them 54464-57-2.

Acetyl cedrene is entry 327 in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. Its presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products or 0.01 % in rinse-off products.

Chemistry and identification

PubChem lists it as compound 16220111 under the title acetylcedrene. The name used for it in Annex III is [3R-(3α,3aβ,7β,8aα)]-1-(2,3,4,7,8,8a-hexahydro-3,6,8,8-tetramethyl-1H-3a,7-methanoazulen-5-yl)ethan-1-one. The IFRA consultation on the 52nd Amendment gives a second CAS number for it, 68039-35-0, next to 32388-55-9, and spells its INCI name Acetylcedrene.

Comparison with Iso E Super

Iso E Super (OTNE) is a synthetic ketone fragrance with a woody odour, produced commercially by a Diels–Alder reaction. The commercial product comprises more than twenty isomeric ketones. The dominant beta isomer makes up most of the mixture yet is nearly odourless, and the characteristic scent comes from a minor constituent, the gamma isomer known as Arborone, which typically represents only a few percent of the mixture.

Cedar oil and cedrene

Cedrene is a sesquiterpene found in the essential oil of cedar. The two isomers present in the oil, α-cedrene and β-cedrene, differ in the position of a double bond, and cedrene is used in perfumes and fragrances to produce a woody scent. Cedrol is another component of cedar oil. All the cedarwood oils of commerce contain cedrol and cedrene in proportions that depend on the species. These compounds contribute to the odour of the oil and are valuable to the chemical industry for conversion to other derivatives with fragrance applications.

Cedar oil is an essential oil derived from various conifers, most of them in the pine or cypress families. The most important commercial oils are distilled from the wood of junipers and cypresses, both of the family Cupressaceae, rather than from true cedars. Texas cedarwood oil is derived primarily from Juniperus ashei and a second species. Ashe juniper is a drought-tolerant evergreen tree native from northeastern Mexico and the south-central United States to southern Missouri, with its largest stands in central Texas. Cedarwood oils each have a characteristic woody odour, which may change somewhat as the oil dries out.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Australian Blue Cypress · Cedar · Cedarwood · Cedrene · Cedrol · Cedryl Acetate · Cypress · False Cypress

Istorija

Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amended Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. Cosmetic products containing acetyl cedrene that do not comply with the new restriction may be placed on the Union market until 31 July 2026 and made available on it until 31 July 2028.

The Regulation was published in the Official Journal on 27 July 2023 and entered into force on the twentieth day after its publication. Before it, 24 fragrance allergens had to be individually labelled in the list of ingredients, and the amendment extended that obligation to further fragrance substances. The transition periods of 3 and 5 years were set because of the relatively low and stable percentage of consumers developing allergic contact dermatitis, the large number of new fragrance allergens to be labelled and the significant number of cosmetic products concerned.

On 12 December 2025 IFRA launched a consultation on the 52nd Amendment to its Standards. The consultation lists acetyl cedrene among 40 new restriction Standards to address potential dermal sensitization effects. The Amendment includes 51 new restriction Standards in all, and the consultation covers all 69 Standards affected by changes, new and revised. The consultation stayed open until 12 June 2026, and its start on 12 December 2025 also began the period for the new provisions to come into force.

The cedarwood oil of the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians was derived from the Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani). The forests of that tree have been almost entirely eradicated, and no commercial oil extraction is based on it today.

Zanimljivosti

Acetyl cedrene does not smell like freshly cut natural cedarwood. It smells like the refined, long-lasting woody shadow that sits underneath a perfume.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Acetyl cedrene is made from cedarwood oil. Distillation of the oil gives a hydrocarbon fraction, and acetylating that fraction yields a complex mixture of ketones. The hydrocarbon cut used in manufacture has two main components, cedrene and thujopsene. With acid catalysts thujopsene isomerizes into a large number of hydrocarbons, and this isomerization is thought to come before the acetylation step.

Formula: C₁₇H₂₆O
CAS: 32388-55-9
Izgled: Liquid
Jačina mirisa: Srednji
Trajnost: High
Sinonimi: Acetyl cedrene, Acetylcedrene

Status prema standardima IFRA

Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Fizička svojstva

Tačka paljenja: > 100 °C

U parfemima

Acetyl cedrene is a fixative and a woody-amber builder. Its tenacity is high, which makes it useful as a base ingredient and as fixative support. It belongs to the family of long-lasting woody-amber materials that give structure and persistence to a fragrance. A suggested starting dose for early trials is 0.5–3% of the fragrance concentrate. In trace amounts it adds subtle dryness, woody body and background persistence. At a moderate level it builds a clear cedarwood-amber base and improves drydown structure. At a high level it can become strongly woody, dry and dominant in the base. Too much can make a formula feel too dry, heavy or monotonously woody if lift, freshness or contrast are missing. It works especially well in fougère, woody, leather, amber and aromatic profiles. It balances sweet, floral, fruity or musky formulas by adding a drier base effect. It is also useful in candle and diffuser compositions where a long-lasting woody foundation is needed. It does not add freshness, since it is a base material, and it does not create sweetness. It does not create strong projection by itself, and it does not replace natural cedarwood. Iso E Super pairs with it to add transparent woody diffusion and smooth modern volume.

Uloga u formuli

01fiksativ

02sirovina za stapanje

03graditelj volumena

04toplina

Oblici na tržištu

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