N/A — manufactured synthetically (a Swiss fragrance house)
Pyramid
Base
Dry amber with a pronounced trigeminal bite — closer to warm stone than to honeyed resin. A ketal derived from manool that smells like the inside of a cedarwood box left in direct sun.
Dry, powdery amber with a sharp trigeminal prickle that hits before the warmth registers. Less creamy than ambroxide, less mineral than Cetalox. The woody quality recalls sun-heated driftwood rather than freshly cut timber. Underneath, a musky-animalic undertone surfaces — subtle but persistent, like the skin-scent left on a worn leather glove. The finish is chalky and warm, with none of the sweetness typically associated with the word “amber.”
Evolution over time
Immediately
Immediately
Sharp trigeminal prickle, dry woody-amber attack with a slightly metallic edge. The molecule announces itself with physical sensation before scent.
After a few hours
After a few hours
The trigeminal effect softens. Warm, powdery amber dominates with musky-animalic undertones emerging. Drier and more mineral than the opening.
After a few days
After a few days
Chalky, skin-warm amber residue. The animalic facet fades, leaving a persistent dry-wood warmth close to the skin. Detectable on fabric for two weeks or more.
The Full Story
Amberketal is a semi-synthetic amber molecule (CAS 57345-19-4, C₁₈H₃₀O₂, MW 278.43) built from manool, a labdane diterpenoid extracted from the pink pine (Halocarpus biformis) of New Zealand. The synthesis pathway involves epoxidation of one of manool’s double bonds, oxidative degradation of the allylic alcohol into a ketone, and intramolecular acetalization to form the characteristic ketal ring. The result is a tetracyclic oxepin structure with five asymmetric carbons; only a specific mixture of isomers is used commercially.
Scent Character
The odor is dry, woody-amber with a strong trigeminal effect — a prickling sensation at the back of the nose that sets it apart from smoother amber molecules like ambroxide or Cetalox. Where ambroxide reads mineral and airy, Amberketal is warmer, denser, more tactile. It has animalic-musky undertones and a powdery finish that anchors it firmly in the base of a composition. Odor strength is medium but substantivity is extreme: TGSC reports persistence above 384 hours on a smelling strip.
Technical Use
Amberketal is almost always diluted to 8.5–10% in isopropyl myristate (IPM) or dipropylene glycol before use, owing to its extreme potency. It functions as a fixative and volume builder, lending dry amber depth to amber, woody, and chypre structures. It works with other labdane derivatives (Ambrox, Cetalox) but provides a distinct, rougher quality. Not currently restricted under IFRA 51st Amendment for fine fragrance use.
This note in Première Peau. Doppel Dänçers · Albâtre Sépia. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.
Amberketal has five asymmetric carbon centers, theoretically yielding 32 possible stereoisomers. Only a specific mixture of these isomers carries the desired amber odor. The molecule's extreme substantivity — over 384 hours on a smelling strip according to TGSC data — means a single application on fabric can remain detectable for more than two weeks.
Extraction & Chemistry
Extraction method: Semi-synthesis from manool, a labdane diterpenoid extracted from the heartwood and foliage of the pink pine (Halocarpus biformis), endemic to New Zealand. Manool content in H. biformis is exceptionally high: 6-8% by dry weight, the richest known plant source. The conversion involves three steps: (1) epoxidation of one of manool's olefinic double bonds, (2) oxidative cleavage of the allylic alcohol side chain to yield a ketone intermediate, and (3) intramolecular acetalization to close the ketal ring, producing the final tetracyclic oxepin structure. An alternative route from L-abietic acid has been published (Tetrahedron, 2007). The commercial product is a colorless to pale yellow liquid, diluted to 8.5-10% in isopropyl myristate for handling.
Molecular Formula
C₁₈H₃₀O₂
CAS Number
57345-19-4
Botanical Name
N/A — synthetic amber molecule
IFRA Status
No known restrictions
Synonyms
AMBER KETONE · AMBERKETAL
Physical Properties
Odor Strength
Medium
Lasting Power
> 384 hours
Appearance
Colorless to pale yellow clear liquid
Boiling Point
300-301°C @ 760 mmHg
Flash Point
252°F / 122°C (TCC)
Specific Gravity
0.864 to 0.874 @ 25.00°C
Refractive Index
1.436 to 1.446 @ 20.00°C
In Perfumery
Amberketal operates as a fixative and dry-amber modifier in the base of a composition. Its primary function is to extend longevity while adding a tactile, woody-amber warmth without overt sweetness. It sits at the drier end of the amber spectrum, making it valuable in masculine ambers, woody-amber accords, and modern chypres where creamier molecules like ambroxide would read too soft. It strengthens woody-ambergris accords alongside Cetalox (CAS 3738-00-9) and Ambrox DL, each contributing a different quality of the amber constellation. In functional perfumery (soaps, detergents), its stability in non-aggressive media makes it a reliable base anchor.
