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Cistus Incanus

FLOWERS  /  balsamic · floral · rich
Cistus Incanus
Cistus Incanus perfume ingredient
CategoryFLOWERS
Subcategorybalsamic · floral · rich
Origin
VolatilityBase Note
BotanicalCistus creticus L. (syn. Cistus incanus subsp. creticus)
AppearanceColorless to pale yellow liquid
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesGreece, Mediterranean (Corsica, Italy, Spain, Turkey)
PyramidBase

Warm, amber-resinous, with a dry herbal edge. Cistus incanus exudes a sticky, aromatic gum (labdanum) from its leaves -- the smell of Mediterranean scrubland in July, baked by the sun.

  1. Scent
  2. The Full Story
  3. Fun Fact
  4. Extraction & Chemistry
  5. In Perfumery

Scent

Warm, amber-resinous, with a dry herbal-green edge and a faint animalic undertone. Lighter than Cistus ladanifer labdanum, less heavy and less tarry. The herbal quality is more pronounced -- Mediterranean garrigue, sun-dried herbs, warm stone. A quiet ambergris-like sweetness sits underneath the resin.

Evolution over time

Immediately

Immediately

Warm resin, herbal-green, Mediterranean scrubland
After a few hours

After a few hours

Amber-balsamic depth develops, animalic sweetness
After a few days

After a few days

Tenacious warm amber, quiet and persistent

The Full Story

Cistus incanus (hoary rock rose, pink rock rose) is a species within the Cistaceae family, closely related to Cistus ladanifer -- the primary source of labdanum resin. Cistus incanus grows across the Mediterranean basin, from Portugal to Turkey, on dry, rocky, calcareous soils. Its leaves exude a sticky, aromatic resin that has been collected since antiquity.

The resinous exudate shares the labdanum family character: warm, amber, balsamic, with a particular animalic-ambergris undertone. Key odorants include labdanum-type compounds (labdanolic acid derivatives), viridiflorol, and various sesquiterpene alcohols. Compared to Cistus ladanifer, C. incanus is lighter, more herbal, and less densely resinous.

In perfumery, Cistus incanus contributes to the labdanum complex -- the warm, amber-resinous base that underpins amber, chypre, and amber fragrance families. Its lighter character makes it useful where the heavy, almost tarry quality of pure labdanum absolute would be excessive.

This note in Première Peau. Nuit Elastique · Rose Monotone. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Related: Accord Eudora · African Marigold · Alpha Amylcinnamaldehyde · Alyssum · Angels Trumpet · Aquaflora · Ashoka Flower · Aurantiol

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Ancient Egyptians shaped labdanum resin into the false beards worn by pharaohs. The aromatic, dark, sticky resin could be moulded when warm and held its shape when cool -- combining ceremonial function with fragrance.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Steam distillation of the aerial parts yields an essential oil. Solvent extraction of the resinous exudate produces labdanum absolute and resinoid. Traditionally, labdanum resin was collected by dragging leather thongs (ladanisterion) across the bushes -- the sticky resin adhered to the leather.

Molecular FormulaComplex mixture; key component: labdane diterpenes
CAS Number8016-26-0 (Cistus incanus / labdanum oil)
Botanical NameCistus creticus L. (syn. Cistus incanus subsp. creticus)
IFRA StatusNo known restrictions
Synonymsrock rose, pink rock rose
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
AppearanceColorless to pale yellow liquid
Flash Point> 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
Specific Gravity0.91000 to 0.96000 @ 25.00 °C.

In Perfumery

Cistus incanus contributes a lighter labdanum-type resinous character to amber, chypre, and amber bases. Its warmer, more herbal profile (compared to C. ladanifer) makes it useful where heavy labdanum would be excessive. Key odorants: labdanolic acid derivatives, viridiflorol, sesquiterpene alcohols. The note provides Mediterranean garrigue warmth and a faint ambergris-like sweetness.

From the raw to the worn

This is what it becomes.