Skin Musk

AccordMUSK, AMBER, ANIMALICmusky · warm · powdery

Seven perfumesOne of them is looking at you

BasePyramid
—Strength
—Tenacity
—Origins

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Specimen
Skin Musk perfume ingredient
Base
Fantasy/Concept
Definition

Musky notes, also called white musks, group soft, cottony, very tenacious and comfortable scents that give a sensation of cashmere or baby skin.

SWEET POWDERY MUSKY ANIMALIC WARM FRESH DRY
musky notes, white musks
Type
Accord
Olfactive family
Amber & musk
Subfamily
Clean musks
Cluster
Clean musks
Source
Synthetic musks (nitro, polycyclic and macrocyclic classes)
Instruments
Pyramid
TTop
HHeart
BBase
Tenacity on blotter
Very tenacious

Scent

Synthetic musks have a clean, smooth and sweet scent that lacks the fecal notes of animal musks. Habanolide smells of clean musk with metallic hot-iron or pressed-linen nuances and a soft, powdery warmth. Natural musk is usually described as animalistic, earthy and woody, or as something akin to the odor of baby's skin.

The Full Story

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century, when economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk.

Synthetic musks fall into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds and macrocyclic musk compounds. Nitro musks were first discovered in an attempt to produce new high explosives. Galaxolide is a polycyclic musk. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace the nitro and polycyclic musks because they appear to be safer.

Among macrocyclic musks, muscone is a slightly animalic note, muscenone a powdery note and Habanolide a woody and powdery note. Exaltolide is a floral and angelic note, close to ambrette.

Under the IFRA Standards, musk xylene is prohibited, while musk ketone falls under a specification.

Muscone, a macrocyclic ketone, is the organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk. Synthetic musks are lipophilic compounds and tend to deposit and persist in fat tissues.

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Related: Aldron · Ambretone · Ambrette Musk Mallow · Ambrettolide Natural Musk · Ambrinol · Coral Reef · Cyclopentadecanolide · Exaltolide

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Since obtaining deer musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic. Natural musk comes from the pod of the male musk deer; on drying, the reddish-brown paste inside turns into a black granular material called musk grain, which is then tinctured with alcohol. An artificial musk was obtained by Albert Baur in 1888 by condensing toluene with isobutyl bromide in the presence of aluminium chloride and nitrating the product.

Lasting power
Very tenacious
Synonyms
musky notes, white musks
IFRA status
See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

Musks are commonly used as base notes in perfumery. Synthetic musks serve as fixatives and supply the base note of many perfume formulas. Natural musk has been held to give a perfume long-lasting power as a fixative. Synthetic musks are also used in cosmetics, detergents and foods, as flavorings and fixatives. Macrocyclic lactones from some plants are used as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks.

Role in the formula
01modifier
02backbone
03blender
04freshness
Available as
fragrance accord

See Also

9 notes