Thailand Oud

NaturalWOODS & MOSSESwoody · balsamic · rich

BasePyramid

—Strength

—Tenacity

1Origins

Specimen

Aquilaria crassna, Aquilaria subintegra

Definition

Thailand oud is agarwood essential oil from Thailand, obtained from the wood of Aquilaria crassna. Its odour is very rich, deep and complex.

Oud, Gaharu, Oodh, Aguru, Jinko

Type: Ingredient
Olfactive family: Woods
Subfamily: Balsamic woods
Cluster: Oud-like dark woods
Source: wood
Chemical class: complex natural (essential oil)

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

Producing countries

Thailand

Scent

Agarwood oil from Thailand has an enveloping woody note with warm, animalic accents. Its richness comes from the balsamic, leathery and smoky facets. Agarwood in the perfume state is mainly distinguished by a combination of "oriental-woody" and "very soft fruity-floral" notes. The incense smoke of agarwood is also characterised by a "sweet-balsamic" note and "shades of vanilla and musk" and amber.

In PREMIEREPEAU

DISCOVERY SET7 × 2 ml →EXTRAIT DE PARFUMThe seven extraits →

Terroir & Maturity

The Full Story

Origin

Agarwood forms in the heartwood of Aquilaria trees after they become infected with a type of Phaeoacremonium mould, P. parasitica. The tree defensively secretes a resin to combat the fungal infestation. Aquilaria crassna is one source of agarwood, a resinous heartwood used for perfume and incense. Aquilaria subintegra is a native tree of Thailand and a principal source of agarwood. Thailand has some of the most extensive Aquilaria plantations anywhere. Trat in eastern Thailand has vast plantations of Aquilaria crassna. Aquilaria crassna is critically endangered.

Chemistry

The composition of agarwood oil is exceedingly complex, with more than 150 chemical compounds identified. At least 70 of these are terpenoids, in the form of sesquiterpenes and chromones, and no monoterpenes have been detected at all. Other common classes of compounds include agarofurans, cadinanes, eudesmanes, valencanes and eremophilanes, guaianes, prezizanes and vetispiranes. The exact balance of these materials varies with the age and species of the tree and the details of the oil extraction process. In Aquilaria subintegra oil, sesquiterpenes and their oxygenated derivatives were key components. The aroma of agarwood oil, characterised by intricate, woody and multifaceted notes, originates from specific sesquiterpenes, with agarospirol a notable contributor. Oils containing a diverse range of sesquiterpenes are often considered superior.

Trade and conservation

The aromatic qualities of agarwood vary with the species, the geographic location, the length of time since infection, and the methods of harvesting and processing. Agarwood oil is one of the most expensive essential oils. Adulteration of the wood and oil is common in practice. Bangkok is at the heart of the trade in agarwood and oud oil. Most of the sticks and chips on sale in Bangkok come from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and India. Overharvesting and habitat loss threaten some populations of agarwood-producing species. CITES Appendix II requires that international trade in agarwood be monitored.

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Did You Know?

In natural forests, only about 7 out of 100 Aquilaria trees of the same species are infected and produce agarwood. Local communities induce resin artificially by making nail or axe wounds in the wood and exposing it to infection by fungi such as Phialophora parasitica.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

The oil is obtained by hydrodistillation of the wood. Oud oil can also be distilled from agarwood with steam, and the total yield for 70 kg of wood will not exceed 20 ml. When a tree is ready to be harvested, it is felled. The bark is then removed and the wood is carefully carved to remove the parts that are not stained with agarwood.

Formula: Complex natural mixture (key constituents: agarospirol)
CAS: 958663-49-5
Botanical: Aquilaria crassna, Aquilaria subintegra
Synonyms: Oud, Gaharu, Oodh, Aguru, Jinko

IFRA status

See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

In Perfumery

Oud is generally used as a base note and is traditionally paired with rose. Oud has become a popular component in perfumery. Agarwood oil is used in many oriental fragrances, at the heart of woody and leathery accords. In the Middle and Far East, agarwood is traditionally burned as incense or used to make attars and perfume oils.

Role in the formula

01modifier

02signature note

03blender

04volume builder

05fixative

Available as

essential oil