Trat Oud

NaturalWOODS & MOSSESwoody · rich · balsamic

BasePyramid

—Strength

—Tenacity

1Origins

Specimen

Aquilaria crassna

Definition

Trat province lies in eastern Thailand and borders several provinces of Cambodia. Trat Oud's odour is very rich, deep and complex.

Agarwood oil, Oud oil

Type: Ingredient
Olfactive family: Woods
Subfamily: Smoky woods
Cluster: Oud-like dark woods
Source: resinous heartwood
Chemical class: complex natural (essential oil)

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

—Strength

Relative odor impact 250

Relative odor impact 250

Producing countries

Thailand

Scent

Agarwood oil has an enveloping woody note with warm, animalic accents. Its richness comes from the balsamic, leathery and smoky facets. The aroma of agarwood oil is described as sweet, woody, balsamic, sandalwood, leathery, fruity, smoky, animal, and tobacco.

In PREMIEREPEAU

DISCOVERY SET7 × 2 ml →EXTRAIT DE PARFUMThe seven extraits →

Terroir & Maturity

The Full Story

Trat province lies in eastern Thailand and borders several provinces of Cambodia. Trat has vast plantations where the Aquilaria crassna variety is grown. Aquilaria crassna is a species of plant in the Thymelaeaceae family. Aquilaria crassna is critically endangered and native to Southeast Asia. It is one source of agarwood, a resinous heartwood used for perfume and incense.

Agarwood forms in the heartwood of Aquilaria trees after they become infected with a type of Phaeoacremonium mold, P. parasitica. The tree secretes a resin to combat the fungal infestation. Before infection, the heartwood mostly lacks scent and is relatively light and pale. As the infection advances, the heartwood becomes very dense, dark and saturated with resin.

A common method in planted forestry is to inoculate trees with the fungus. In artificial induction, nail or axe wounds are made in the wood and the wood is exposed to infection by fungi such as Phialophora parasitica. Agarwood is now cultivated, and Thailand has some of the most extensive plantations anywhere.

The composition of agarwood oil is exceedingly complex, with more than 150 chemical compounds identified. At least 70 of these are terpenoids in the form of sesquiterpenes and chromones, and no monoterpenes have been detected at all. The exact balance of these materials varies with the age and species of the tree and with the details of the oil extraction process.

Oud scent is popular in the Middle East, the Arab world and Arab culture, where it is used as a traditional aromatic and perfume in many forms. Oud wood is burned for spiritual, medicinal and decorative purposes, in addition to being worn for its scent and status. One of the main reasons for the relative rarity and high cost of agarwood is the depletion of wild sources. In 2004, all Aquilaria species were listed in Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora.

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Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Oud oil can be distilled from agarwood using steam. The Thai oil from Aquilaria crassna is made by hydrodistillation of the wood. When a tree is ready to be harvested, it is felled. The bark is then removed and the wood is carefully carved to remove the parts that are not stained with agarwood.

Formula: Complex natural mixture (key constituents: sesquiterpenes; chromones)
CAS: 958663-49-5
Botanical: Aquilaria crassna
Appearance: Viscous liquid, orange to dark brown
Odour strength: Relative odor impact 250
Synonyms: Agarwood oil, Oud oil

IFRA status

See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Physical properties

Flash point: > 100 °C
Specific gravity: 0.945–0.961 (D20/20)
Refractive index: 1.469–1.485 (nD20)

In Perfumery

Oud is generally used as a base note and is traditionally paired with rose. Few perfume houses use real oud in their creations because oud is very expensive and potent. Agarwood oil is used in many oriental fragrances and blossoms at the heart of woody and leathery accords.

Role in the formula

01fixative

02modifier

03backbone

04signature note

05blender

06volume builder

Available as

essential oil