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Bazne notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
1Poreklo
Uzorak
Ulje korena kostusa kao sirovina za parfeme
Bazne note
Dolomiaea costus (syn. Saussurea costus, Aucklandia costus, Saussurea lappa)
Definicija

Costus root oil is an essential oil obtained by steam distillation from the dried roots of Dolomiaea costus, a thistle formerly named Saussurea costus. Its odour is orris, green, hairy and woody, with an animal character.

DRVENAST ANIMALNI ZELEN
Costus oil
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Animalni
Source
plant root
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
Zemlje proizvođači
Indija

Miris

The oil has a characteristic persistent odour reminiscent of orris, violet and vetiver. Smelled at full strength, it is described as orris, green, hairy and woody, with a note of unripe melons. The odour type is classed as animal.

Detaljno

Dolomiaea costus is a perennial thistle of the family Asteraceae. It was formerly known as Saussurea costus. The plant is native to South Asia and China. It is commonly known as costus, Indian costus, kuth or putchuk. Its synonyms include Aucklandia costus and Saussurea lappa.

It is usually found at elevations of 2,500 to 3,000 m in India, including the Himalayas and Kashmir. The plant is cultivated as a medicinal plant, mainly in India, in Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir. Most of the roots are exported to China and Japan.

The main component of one steam-distilled root oil was costunolide, also named eudesma-5,11(13)-dien-8,12-olide, at 52.01 %. Elemene, phenanthrenone and caryophyllene oxide are also among the major components of that oil. Myrcene, p-cymene, β-ionone, sesquiterpenes, costolactone and a small amount of palmitic acid are among the main constituents given in another description. Differences between studies in the composition of the oil may be due to time of harvesting, local, climatic and seasonal issues, and the storage time of the roots. The oil is soluble in most fixed oils and in mineral oil, and insoluble in glycerin and propylene glycol.

Essential oils extracted from the root have been used in traditional medicine and in perfumes since ancient times. Pliny described the spice as having a burning taste and a very fine scent, but as otherwise useless. The plant has been greatly over-collected and has been placed on Appendix I of CITES. Costus is one of the most threatened medicinal plants of Kashmir Himalaya. In Jammu and Kashmir, the Kuth Act of 1978 regulates trade in the plant.

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Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

The oil is obtained by steam distillation after maceration in water of the comminuted dried roots. Since the oil contains water-soluble components and has a specific gravity similar to that of water, it is then recovered from the distillation waters by extraction with solvents. The yield is approximately 0.7%. In another study, 400 g of coarsely powdered roots were steam-distilled with a Clevenger system for 3 h, and the essential oil yield was 3 %. Two earlier studies reported that hydro-distillation of the roots yielded oil at 0.23% and 0.89% (v/w).

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: costunolide C₁₅H₂₀O₂)
CAS
8023-88-9
Botanički naziv
Dolomiaea costus (syn. Saussurea costus, Aucklandia costus, Saussurea lappa)
Izgled
viscous, pale-yellow to yellowish-brown liquid
Sinonimi
Costus oil
Status prema standardima IFRA
Zabranjeno (neki oblici)

Prohibited — IFRA Standard « Costus root oil, absolute and concrete » (Amendment 40)

Fizička svojstva
Tačka paljenja
120 °F
Indeks prelamanja
1.5180 (n20/D)

U parfemima

In cosmetics, costus oil serves as a perfuming ingredient.

Uloga u formuli
01fiksativ
02nota potpisa
03modifikator
Oblici na tržištu
eterično ulje

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