Ljiljan

SintetičkaBELI CVETOVIcvetni · zelen · voštan
Srednje notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
—Poreklo
Uzorak
Ljiljan kao sirovina za parfeme
Srednje note
Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley); Lilium candidum (Madonna lily, a true lily)
Definicija

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis, muguet in French) is a plant whose scent must be recreated synthetically, because no natural aromatic extract can be produced from it. Hydroxycitronellal, an odorant used in perfumery, has a sweet floral, lily-like and green smell.

FLORAL GREEN SWEET WAXY WATERY ALDEHYDIC CITRUS MELON
muguet, lily of the valley
Type
Akord
Olfactive family
Cvetni
Source
Recreated synthetically; no natural aromatic extract can be produced from the plant
Chemical class
Aldehydes (hydroxycitronellal, bourgeonal, lilial)
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note

Miris

Hydroxycitronellal has a sweet floral, lily, green, waxy and tropical odour, with slight melon and citrus undertones. Bourgeonal has a fragrance reminiscent of lily of the valley, otherwise described as floral, watery, green and aldehydic. The (R)-enantiomer of lilial has a strong floral odour, reminiscent of cyclamen or lily of the valley, whereas the (S)-enantiomer possesses no strong odour. The flowers of lily of the valley are sweetly scented.

Detaljno

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a Eurasian woodland plant. It produces sweetly scented racemes of pendulous, bell-shaped white flowers. It is used in floristry, and perfumes have been based on its scent, although no aromatic extract can be produced from the plant itself.

Hydroxycitronellal derives from citronellal and belongs to the class of medium-chain aldehydes. It is generally a viscous liquid that congeals at temperatures below 23 °C. It is soluble in alcohol, propylene glycol and oils and insoluble in glycerol. Hydroxycitronellal is a skin sensitiser. The hydroxycitronellal used in Europe is produced primarily inside the European Union. The condensation product of hydroxycitronellal and indole is known as Indolene. Bourgeonal is an aromatic aldehyde used in perfumery. It is a colourless liquid, although commercial samples can appear yellow. Lilial, a trade name for lily aldehyde, is an aromatic aldehyde with the formula (CH₃)₃CC₆H₄CH₂CH(CH₃)CHO. It occurs naturally in crow-dipper and tomato plants. It was once produced synthetically on a multi-ton scale as a perfume for cosmetic preparations and laundry powders. Lilial is commonly produced and sold as a racemic mixture. Like most aldehydes, lilial tends to oxidize on storage. It is also used as an intermediate in the synthesis of agrochemicals such as fenpropimorph and fenpropidin. Its toxicity is attributed to its degradation product tert-butyl benzoic acid.

Lilium candidum, the Madonna lily or white lily, is a plant in the true lily family. It is native to the Balkans and Middle East. Its flowers are pure white and tinted yellow in their throats. Its flowering stem emerges in late spring and bears several very fragrant flowers in summer. About one hundred wild species and ten thousand cultivars of lilies are found worldwide. Lily petals release multiple volatile compounds, mainly monoterpenoids and phenylpropanoids/benzenoids. Four monoterpenoids (linalool, (E)-β-ocimene, 1,8-cineole and myrcene) and two phenylpropanoids/benzenoids (methyl benzoate and ethyl benzoate) are the most critical volatile compounds in most fragrant lilies.

Zanimljivosti

In vitro, bourgeonal acts as a chemo-attractant for human spermatozoa, activating an olfactory receptor called OR1D2. As of 2010, bourgeonal is the only known odor substance to which males have a higher average sensitivity than females.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

In laboratory studies, the volatiles that lily flowers emit are collected by headspace solid-phase microextraction, and the compounds that remain in petal tissue are extracted with organic solvents, both followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Of eight common solvents, dichloromethane was the most suitable for extracting the endogenous compounds from the petals of one lily cultivar. Lilial is produced by the mixed aldol coupling of 4-tert-butylbenzaldehyde (typically as its methanol acetal) and propionaldehyde, followed by hydrogenation. Industrial synthesis of bourgeonal involves a mixed aldol reaction of 4-tert-butylbenzaldehyde and acetaldehyde, followed by hydrogenation. Alternatively, bourgeonal may be produced by the Heck reaction of 1-bromo-4-tert-butylbenzene with 2-hydroxymethylpropene followed by isomerisation.

Formula
C₁₀H₂₀O₂ (hydroxycitronellal)
CAS
107-75-5 (hydroxycitronellal)
Botanički naziv
Convallaria majalis (lily of the valley); Lilium candidum (Madonna lily, a true lily)
Izgled
Colourless liquid (hydroxycitronellal)
Sinonimi
muguet, lily of the valley
Status prema standardima IFRA
Ograničeno

Restricted — IFRA Standard « Hydroxycitronellal » (Amendment 51)

Fizička svojstva
Tačka ključanja
241 °C at 760 mm Hg
Relativna gustina
0.918-0.923
Indeks prelamanja
1.447-1.450
Nota
Values are those of hydroxycitronellal.

U parfemima

Perfumes imitating lily of the valley sometimes carry its French name, muguet. Hydroxycitronellal was used to build the lily-of-the-valley scent in a classic 1956 fragrance; the European Chemicals Agency now considers it a skin sensitiser and its use has been restricted. Hydroxycitronellal is used as an ingredient in fragrances and is found in a wide variety of consumer products. It is found in soaps, shampoos, detergents, perfumes and household cleaning and maintenance products. Lilial was used in perfumes produced before 2022 as a synthetic substitute for the scent of lily of the valley. Because of the ban on lilial, safe analogues are currently used in perfume production. The Schiff base of hydroxycitronellal and methyl anthranilate is known as Aurantiol, which is extensively used in a large variety of floral notes such as orange-blossom, linden-blossom and tuberose.

Uloga u formuli
01pojačivač difuzije
02modifikator
03nota potpisa
04sirovina za stapanje
05graditelj volumena
06svežina
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