Jasmin

PrirodnaBELI CVETOVIcvetni
Srednje notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
3Poreklo
Uzorak
Jasmin kao sirovina za parfeme
Srednje note
Jasminum grandiflorum Jasminum sambac
Definicija

Jasmine absolute is a natural perfumery material obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum. Its smell is floral and sweet, with a slightly animalic edge.

Floral
100
Indolique
0
Vert
45
Doux
90
Crémeux
0
Animalique
0
Jasmin absolute, jasmine oil
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Cvetni
Source
flowers
Chemical class
natural (absolute)
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
Zemlje proizvođači
Egipat Francuska (Gras) Indija

Miris

Jasmine absolute is described as floral, voluptuous, sweet and slightly animalic. Its technical descriptors are jasmine and fruity. The flowers of Jasminum sambac are sweetly fragrant and also strongly scented.

Teroar i poreklo

Detaljno

The jasmines form a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family, Oleaceae. The genus contains around 200 species native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Asia, Africa, and Oceania. Jasmines are widely cultivated for the characteristic fragrance of their flowers. Most of the jasmine used by the global perfume industry is grown in Shubra Beloula, a village in Egypt.

Jasminum grandiflorum, known as Spanish jasmine, is native to South Asia, the Arabian peninsula, East and Northeast Africa and the Yunnan and Sichuan regions of China. It is a scrambling deciduous shrub growing to 2-4 m tall, with white flowers. Two subspecies are recognised: subspecies floribundum in the African and Arabian parts of the natural range, and subspecies grandiflorum for South Asian plants, cultivars and naturalised populations. Jasminum sambac is a small shrub or vine growing up to 0.5 to 3 m in height. It is the national flower of the Philippines, where it is known as sampaguita. Cultivated plants generally bear no seeds and are propagated by cuttings, layering and other asexual methods.

This note in PREMIEREPEAU. Nuit Élastique. Sample all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

Chemistry

In Jasminum grandiflorum, benzyl acetate makes up 23.7%, benzyl benzoate 20.7%, phytol 10.9% and linalool 8.2%. Isophytol accounts for 5.5%, geranyl linalool for 3.0%, methyl linoleate for 2.8% and eugenol for 2.5%. Benzyl acetate, a constituent of jasmin, is an organic ester with a sweet, floral, fruity aroma reminiscent of jasmine. It is a characteristic constituent of jasmine scent, making up to approximately 20-30% of the total emission in the headspace or extract. The aroma of Jasminum sambac is caused by a variety of compounds, including benzyl alcohol, methyl benzoate, linalool and benzyl acetate. In methanol extracts of open Jasminum sambac flowers, the abundant constituents were α-farnesene, linalool, germacrene, benzyl acetate and other benzoic acid esters. In jasmine absolute the volatile compounds are enriched in benzyl acetate, linalool and (E,E)-α-farnesene. Benzyl acetate is the predominant benzenoid ester in jasmine flowers, accounting for almost 90% of the volatile benzenoids and phenylpropanoids, although the composition varies with species, cultivation practices and season. The structure of the jasmonate plant hormones was worked out after methyl jasmonate was isolated from the oil of Jasminum grandiflorum. Jasmonates occur throughout the plant kingdom and act in plant responses to heat and cold stress.

Sources and cultivation

Egypt leads the world in grandiflorum jasmine with 60% of the market share, and India holds the remaining 40%. The worldwide production of grandiflorum jasmine concrete is around 16 MT. The Egyptian partners of one supplier grow jasmine in the Nile delta, where rich soils allow record flower yields. One supplier's joint venture in India has built a direct sourcing network with jasmine farmers in Tamil Nadu. It is offered as an alternative to the Egyptian quality, with slightly different olfactory facets.

Zanimljivosti

The flower of Jasminum sambac starts to emit fragrance when it opens at dusk, and its total volatiles peak at around midnight. About 6,000,000 flowers are needed to produce 1 kg of jasmine absolute. The Syrian city of Damascus is called the City of Jasmine, and the Tunisian presidential change of 1987 and the Tunisian Revolution of 2011 are both called Jasmine revolutions.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

A primary extraction with a volatile solvent on fresh or dry biomass yields a concrete or resinoid. The absolute is obtained through a second purification step. Jasmine absolute is the aroma product made from successive hexane and ethanol extractions of the flowers. The part of the plant used is the flowers. Harvest begins with hand-picking the flowers early in the morning, before the sun drives away the aroma. About 10,000 flowers are harvested per kilogram, and one picker gathers about 5,000 flowers an hour. 660 kg of flowers are necessary to obtain 1 kg of absolute.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: benzyl acetate C₉H₁₀O₂; benzyl benzoate; methyl jasmonate C₁₃H₂₀O₃)
CAS
8022-96-6 (J. grandiflorum absolute) · 91770-14-8 (J. sambac absolute)
Botanički naziv
Jasminum grandiflorum Jasminum sambac
Izgled
Reddish brown clear liquid (J. grandiflorum absolute); red brown cloudy liquid (J. sambac absolute)
Sinonimi
Jasmin absolute, jasmine oil
Status prema standardima IFRA
Ograničeno

Restricted — IFRA Standards « Jasmine absolute (grandiflorum) » and « Jasmine absolute (sambac) » (Amendment 49)

Fizička svojstva
Tačka paljenja
52 °C / 125.6 °F

U parfemima

Jasmine enhances floral top and middle notes and helps give perfumes a complex and refined structure. Because of its pleasing scent, J. grandiflorum is commonly made into essential oils, perfumes, soaps and cosmetics worldwide. The flowers of Jasminum sambac may be used as a fragrant ingredient in perfumes and jasmine tea. In PREMIEREPEAU's Nuit Elastique (/products/nuit-elastique-jasmine-night-perfume), jasmine is the structural axis — its nocturnal, indolic character defines the entire composition.

Uloga u formuli
01pojačivač difuzije
02modifikator
03nota potpisa
04sirovina za stapanje
05graditelj volumena
06svežina
Oblici na tržištu
apsolut konkret

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