Jerba mate
Mate, or yerba mate, is a holly, Ilex paraguariensis, whose dried leaves are extracted with volatile solvents to give an absolute used in perfumery. The absolute smells of green tea with dry-grassy notes of tobacco and hay.
- Type
- Sirovina
- Olfactive family
- Zeleni
- Source
- leaves
- Chemical class
- natural extract (absolute)
Miris
Teroar i prerada
Detaljno
Dobijanje i hemija
Način dobijanja
To extract mate, the leaves must be dried. Drying is done either by the traditional smoking technique or by a heated air technique using eucalyptus wood, which can influence the olfactory profile. The dried leaves are then processed by extraction using volatile solvents. One producer buys dried leaves directly from local growers and carries them to its factory for this extraction. Mate absolute is a solvent-extracted material. In another process, leaves grown in Argentina are worked in Europe, and the absolute is extracted directly from the leaves with ethyl alcohol as the solvent. This gives a tea-like aroma and a little more fluidity than other mate absolutes, but the semi-solid material still needs warming to be handled and diluted. Less than 1% ethanol may remain as residual solvent.
- Formula
- Complex natural mixture (key constituents: caffeine C₈H₁₀N₄O₂)
- CAS
- 73296-98-7
- Botanički naziv
- Ilex paraguariensis
- Izgled
- Dark brownish-green, semi-solid mass
- Sinonimi
- Yerba mate
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
U parfemima
Mate extracts are offered for perfumery, cosmetics or beverage flavouring. A mate extract from Brazil combines well with fougère and eau de Cologne accords, adding sweet and honeyed nuances. As a food flavouring, the extract brings fruit aromas to drinks or teas, with notes of hay, floral, honey and tobacco. Used in base accords, the absolute lends a soft greenness that harmonizes with tobacco, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, cistus, labdanum, and woods and resins. It blends with citrus notes such as bergamot and lemon, with florals such as jasmine and chamomile, and with spices such as cardamom and cinnamon. It can bring greenness to floral compositions, or go in a darker direction when paired with tobacco and labdanum. The absolute is very relevant in association with cedar wood or in fresh colognes, and it is rather tenacious. One supplier calls it an indispensable ingredient in green tea accords. As a base note, it adds a green note to the foundation of a perfume without sharpness.
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