Нагармота

НатуральнийДЕРЕВИНАземлистий · деревний · насичений
Базові нотиПіраміда
4/5Сила
—Стійкість
1Походження
Зразок
Нагармота як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Cyperus scariosus
Визначення

Cypriol, also called nagarmotha oil, is an essential oil distilled from the roots of Cyperus scariosus. Its aroma is described as woody, earthy, dry, spicy, patchouli and vetiver.

ДЕРЕВНИЙ ЗЕМЛИСТИЙ ДИМНИЙ ПЕРЦЕВИЙ
cypriol, nagarmotha oil
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Деревні
Source
roots (rhizomes)
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
4/5Сила
Висока
інтенсивність запаху
Країни-виробники
Індія

Запах

The scent is woody-earthy, dry-amber and slightly peppery. It has an earthy, leathery undertone, and it evokes nuances of vetiver, cedarwood and olibanum. The initial impression is fresh and diffusive, resembling an Oriental cinnamon-olibanum complex that is dry, woody and slightly spicy. The body note moves towards the woody-earthy depth of Virginia cedarwood and vetiver oils. The drydown is sweet-woody and rich, with strong vetiver-like undertones, smoky leather facets and a subtle peppery warmth.

Теруар і зрілість

Докладно

Cyperus scariosus is a perennial herbaceous plant from Australia and New Guinea. The species was first formally described by the botanist Robert Brown in 1810. It is very similar to Cyperus pertenuis, and Georg Kükenthal thought it was a variety of Cyperus corymbosus.

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Distribution

It occurs in Papua New Guinea and Australia. In Australia it occurs in northern, eastern and central Queensland, northern Northern Territory and Western Australia. It is not known from the Indian subcontinent. In parts of India, the name is commonly misapplied to Cyperus pertenuis.

Chemistry

The major compounds in the essential oil of nagarmotha rhizomes are cyperene, longifolin, caryophyllene oxide and longiverbenone. The amount of cyperene varied from 5.77% to 24.17% across 13 locations in India. Longifolin ranged from 5.95% to 20.43%, caryophyllene oxide from 2.42% to 10.38%, and longiverbenone from 3.96% to 12.71%.

Rotundone has the highest odor-activity value of the compounds measured in cypriol oil and, together with the other ketones, contributes to its woody-amber character. A new ketone, cyperen-8-one, has a significant woody, ambery odor. A novel lactone, cyperolactone, and an alcohol were also identified in the oil. A total of 21 nitrogenous components have been reported, of which epi-guaipyridine, cananodine and guaia-9,11-dienpyridine were the most abundant.

Composition in more detail

The 13 Indian oils differed considerably in chemical composition. Among the nitrogen-containing molecules, epi-guaipyridine was found at 32 mg/kg, cananodine at 10 mg/kg and guaia-9,11-dienpyridine at 9 mg/kg.

Rotundone is a bicyclic sesquiterpene with the formula C₁₅H₂₂O and a molecular weight of 218.33.

Taxonomy

The species belongs to the family Cyperaceae in the order Poales, and its name is accepted.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

The essential oil is distilled from the roots. Hydro-distillation of rhizomes collected from 13 locations in India gave oil yields from 0.20% at Padampur (Orissa) to 0.58% at Tilakgram (M.P.).

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: cyperene; longifolin; caryophyllene oxide; longiverbenone; rotundone C₁₅H₂₂O; cyperen-8-one)
CAS
68916-60-9
Ботанічна назва
Cyperus scariosus
Зовнішній вигляд
amber to light brown viscous liquid
Сила запаху
Сильна
Синоніми
cypriol, nagarmotha oil
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

У парфумерії

Cypriol is used in perfumery as a fixative. It is used in woody and Oriental bases, dry-amber accords and heavy fougères. In fine fragrance, typical usage ranges from 0.5% to 3% when it is used as a fixative and blender. In heavy fougères it supplies earthy-woody depth, strength and tenacity to the classic lavender, coumarin and oakmoss structure. It is also applied in forest notes and, combined with galbanum resinoid, in hyacinth compositions. Typical partners are bergamot (particularly in dry-amber structures), labdanum, patchouli, clary sage, vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood derivatives, oakmoss products, frankincense, cistus and galbanum. The oil also blends well with methylionones, isoeugenol and woody-amber synthetics. At 0.5-2% it acts as a fixative and modifier that strengthens woody-earthy depth without dominating. Above 2% its soft-woody note and top-note diffusivity become noticeable, and at 3-10% its character is meant to stand out. In soap perfumery and functional fragrance, its low cost, tenacity and stability make it economically attractive.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02натуралізатор
03формувач об’єму
04модифікатор
Форми випуску
ефірна олія абсолют

Див. також

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