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Натуральний і синтетичнийНАТУРАЛЬНІ Й СИНТЕТИЧНІ, ПОПУЛЯРНІ Й НЕЗВИЧНІземлистий · деревний · теплий
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Визначення

Earthy notes are the earthy odours of materials such as geosmin, vetiver oil, patchouli oil and cypriol oil. Geosmin, the compound responsible for the characteristic odour of earth, has a distinct earthy or musty odor.

ЗЕМЛИСТИЙ ДЕРЕВНИЙ ЗАТХЛИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ ДИМНИЙ ПРЯНИЙ БАЛЬЗАМІЧНИЙ
Type
Акорд
Olfactive family
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Запах

Geosmin has a distinct earthy or musty odor. The odor of vetiver oil is described as deep, sweet, woody, smoky, earthy, amber and balsam. Patchouli has a heavy, strong, woody, earthy, balsamic and spicy scent. Cypriol oil has an aroma described as woody, earthy, dry, spicy, patchouli and vetiver. Oakmoss has a distinct and complex odour that can be described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet.

Докладно

Vetiver, Chrysopogon zizanioides, is originally from India and is widely cultivated in tropical regions. The major vetiver producers include Haiti, India, Indonesia and Réunion. The oil distilled in Haiti and Réunion has a more floral quality than the smokier oil from Java. Khus syrup, a food flavouring, is made by adding khus essence from the roots to sugar, water and citric acid syrup, and it flavours milkshakes and yogurt drinks such as lassi.

Patchouli, Pogostemon cablin, is a species of flowering plant in the family Lamiaceae. As of 2023, global demand for patchouli oil was over 1,600 metric tons per year, and over 90% of it was produced by Indonesia.

Oakmoss, Evernia prunastri, is a species of lichen. Oakmoss can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere.

Evernyl, also known as atraric acid or Veramoss, is a synthetic fragrance compound with an aroma reminiscent of natural oakmoss absolute. Its chemical name is methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, its formula is C₁₀H₁₂O₄ and its CAS number is 4707-47-5.

Geosmin is an irregular sesquiterpenoid. It is a bicyclic alcohol with the formula C₁₂H₂₂O, a derivative of decalin. Its name comes from the Greek for "earth odour". Geosmin is formed by microorganisms in the soil, particularly Streptomyces. A single enzyme, geosmin synthase, converts farnesyl diphosphate to geosmin in a two-step reaction. The human odor detection threshold for geosmin in water has been determined between 4 and 10 ng/L, which is about one teaspoon in 200 Olympic swimming pools. Geosmin and 2-methylisoborneol are the major biological causes of muddy odor and flavor in drinking water worldwide and in farmed fish. Geosmin is responsible for the earthy taste of beetroots. Under acidic conditions, geosmin decomposes into odorless substances.

Petrichor is the earthy scent often associated with rain falling on dry soil or rock. Geosmin is a contributor to the strong scent known as petrichor, which occurs when rain falls after a spell of dry weather or when soil is disturbed. Raindrops striking porous surfaces can trap air bubbles, which rise and burst as aerosols, providing a mechanism by which scent-carrying material can enter the air.

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Цікавий факт

Geosmin and 2-methylisoborneol have been shown to attract springtails, which are believed to feed on and spread the spores of Streptomyces. It has been suggested that camels can detect the smell of geosmin released by Streptomyces miles away in wet ground and track it to find an oasis.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Vetiver oil is distilled from the roots. The roots are dug up, cleaned and dried, and before distillation they are chopped and soaked in water. The distillation can take up to 24 hours. After distillation the oil is skimmed off and allowed to age for a few months so that some undesirable notes formed during distillation dissipate. Patchouli oil is extracted by steam distillation of the dried leaves and twigs. Oakmoss is commercially harvested in countries of South-Central Europe and usually exported to the Grasse region of France, where its fragrant compounds are extracted as oakmoss absolutes and extracts. An essential oil called cypriol or nagarmotha oil is distilled from the roots of Cyperus scariosus. Only the (-) isomer of geosmin is formed naturally, while the (+) isomer can be prepared in the laboratory.

Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
270 to 271 °C (geosmin)
Температура плавлення
78 to 82 °C (geosmin)
Температура спалаху
104 °C (geosmin)

У парфумерії

Patchouli has been used for centuries in perfumes. Patchouli oil is used widely in modern perfumery. Oakmoss absolutes and extracts are often used as perfume fixatives and form the base notes of many fragrances. Oakmoss materials are also key components of fougère and chypre class perfumes. The use of oakmoss in perfumes is now highly restricted by International Fragrance Association regulations, and many scents have been reformulated in recent years with other chemicals substituted for oakmoss. At low concentrations, the earthy note of geosmin may add a fresh scent to perfumes and fragrances.

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01модифікатор
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03фірмова нота
04фіксатор
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ефірна олія абсолют пахуча речовина

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