Жолудь

Dry oak leaves gathered into a fist. A woody-herbal molecule — 1-ethynylcyclohexyl acetate — that smells of hay bales, immortelle, and the tannin-dusted floor of an autumn forest. Not the nut itself, but the air around the tree.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Землисті й деревні
- Source
- synthetic molecule (acorn acetate)
- Chemical class
- tertiary propargylic ester
Запах
Докладно
Цікавий факт
Acorn acetate contains no chemical found in actual acorns. GC-MS analysis of roasted Quercus humboldtii acorns identified furfural, 5-methylfurfural, and furfuryl alcohol as dominant volatiles — none of which are structurally related to 1-ethynylcyclohexyl acetate. The trade name is a perfumer’s metaphor: the molecule carries the atmosphere of an oak forest in autumn, not the chemistry of the nut itself.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
Fully synthetic. No natural acorn essential oil or absolute exists for perfumery use. Industrial synthesis proceeds in two steps: (1) ethynylation of cyclohexanone with acetylene under basic conditions (KOH, liquid ammonia or DMSO) to yield 1-ethynylcyclohexanol (CAS 78-27-3); (2) acetylation of the tertiary alcohol with acetic anhydride to give 1-ethynylcyclohexyl acetate. Starting materials are inexpensive bulk chemicals. The product is a colourless, clear liquid.
- Формула
- C₁₀H₁₄O₂ (acorn acetate, MW 166.22)
- CAS
- 5240-32-4 (acorn acetate — the synthetic molecule used to recreate acorn notes)
- Ботанічна назва
- Quercus (genus)
- Зовнішній вигляд
- pale yellow clear liquid (acorn accord)
- Сила запаху
- Середня
- Стійкість
- 72 hours at 100%
- Синоніми
- OAK NUT
Permitted with restriction. IFRA recommends a maximum of 10% in the fragrance concentrate. RIFM safety assessment published 2019 (Food and Chemical Toxicology, PubMed 31356913).
- Температура кипіння
- 201.00 to 202.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg (est)
- Температура спалаху
- 179.00 °F. TCC ( 81.67 °C. )
- Відносна густина
- 1.00100 to 1.00900 @ 25.00 °C.
- Показник заломлення
- 1.46300 to 1.46800 @ 20.00 °C.
У парфумерії
Acorn acetate (1-ethynylcyclohexyl acetate) functions as a heart-to-base modifier in woody, herbal, and chypre-adjacent compositions. Its primary contribution is a dry, natural-smelling oakleaf-hay character that grounds green and woody accords without adding smoke or resin. At low doses (0.5–2%), it introduces an autumnal, herbal dryness — useful in fougere bases, hay accords, and masculine woody ambers. At higher concentrations, it becomes a recognisable signature: the dry-oak character that Christopher Sheldrake reportedly deployed in compositions built around forest and wood themes. The molecule pairs effectively with oakmoss (or its synthetic replacements like evernyl), coumarin, vetiver, and patchouli. It can also bridge herbal top notes — thyme, clary sage — into woody-ambery bases. IFRA recommends a maximum of 10% in the fragrance concentrate. Substantivity is moderate: TGSC reports 72 hours at 100% concentration, placing it firmly in the heart-to-base range. Odor strength is medium.