Мускон

СинтетичнийМУСКУС, АМБРОВИЙ АКОРД, ТВАРИННІ ЗАПАХИмускусний · тваринний · теплий

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Мускон як парфумерна сировина
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Muscone is a macrocyclic ketone, an organic compound that is the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. Its smell is described as musk, animal, powdery.

СОЛОДКИЙ АМБРОВИЙ ТВАРИННИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ ПУДРОВИЙ ТІЛЕСНИЙ
3-methylcyclopentadecanone, (R)-muscone, muskone
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Source
nearly all synthetic; natural source: musk deer
Chemical class
macrocyclic ketone
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
4/5Сила
Висока
інтенсивність запаху

Запах

Muscone has a powerful, soft, sweet animal musk odor. The dl-form has a soft, sweet, tenacious musky odor. The oily liquid has a pleasant musky fragrance.

Its odor profile is given as sweet, musky, animalic, powdery, fatty and natural. The odor is a soft, sweet, highly diffusive musk with warm animalic undertones.

Докладно

What muscone is

Muscone is a 15-membered ring ketone with one methyl substituent in the 3-position. It is an oily liquid that is found naturally as the (−)-enantiomer, (R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone. Muscone has been synthesized as the pure (−)-enantiomer as well as the racemate. It is very slightly soluble in water and miscible with alcohol.

Musk and the musk deer

The musk secretion of the male deer comprises various compounds, including steroids, but muscone is the most important molecule. Musk has been used in perfumery and medicine for thousands of years. Killing one deer yields only about 25 grams of dried musk pods. CITES made musk deer a protected species. The Siberian musk deer is classified as Vulnerable by the IUCN. The muskrat produces a musky secretion too, but it has not been commercialised.

How the structure was found

The chemical structure of muscone was first elucidated by Leopold Ružička. Muscone had been isolated in 1904, but it was not identified as 3-methylcyclopentadecanone until Ružička suspected a macrocycle. Up to the mid-1920s, chemists believed that rings with more than eight atoms were unstable and could not exist. Muscone and civetone were the first natural products shown to have rings with more than six atoms. Ružička also developed a method for synthesising macrocycles, now known as the Ružička large ring synthesis, which he demonstrated by preparing civetone in 1927. Ružička shared the 1939 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century, when economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk.

Macrocyclic musks and the musk receptor

Synthetic musks can be divided into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. Civetone, with the formula C₁₇H₃₀O, is a very similar musky molecule that is obtained from the anal glands of the African civet cat without killing the animal. Civetone is closely related to muscone, and the structure of both compounds was elucidated by Leopold Ružička. In general, musks from animals are ketones, and plant musks are lactones (cyclic esters). Ring size matters for the smell of these ring compounds, whether ketones or lactones; molecules with about 14 to 19 atoms in the ring tend to have a musky smell.

OR5AN1 responds to macrocyclic and nitromusk compounds, two groups of synthetic musks, while OR1A1 responds prominently only to nitromusks. OR5AN1 shows chiral selectivity for (R)-muscone over (S)-muscone, found experimentally and confirmed computationally. OR5AN1 is reported to bind to muscone and related musks such as civetone through hydrogen-bond formation from tyrosine-260, along with hydrophobic interactions with surrounding aromatic residues in the receptor.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Natural muscone is obtained from musk, a glandular secretion of the musk deer. The musk pod, a preputial gland in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer, is normally obtained by killing the male deer through traps laid in the wild. Upon drying, the reddish-brown paste inside the pod turns into a black granular material called musk grain, which is then tinctured with alcohol. It is possible to remove the gland without killing the deer, but this is seldom done. Since obtaining natural musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all muscone used in perfumery and for scenting consumer products today is synthetic. One asymmetric synthesis of (−)-muscone begins with commercially available (+)-citronellal and forms the 15-membered ring by ring-closing metathesis. Another method starts with citronellol; its last two steps use a Grubbs' catalyst to achieve a ring-closure metathesis, followed by a catalytic hydrogenation. A more recent enantioselective synthesis involves an intramolecular aldol addition and dehydration reaction of a macrocyclic diketone.

Формула
C₁₆H₃₀O
CAS
541-91-3 · 10403-00-6 ((R)-muscone)
Зовнішній вигляд
colorless to almost colorless clear liquid
Сила запаху
Висока
Синоніми
3-methylcyclopentadecanone, (R)-muscone, muskone
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
320.00 to 329.00 °C @ 760.00 mm Hg
Показник заломлення
1.4802 @ 17 °C

У парфумерії

As a large molecule, muscone is relatively involatile and lingers on the skin as part of the bottom note of a perfume. It also acts as a fixative, which reduces the evaporation rate of lighter molecules in particular. Musk has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times. Musks as a group are fixatives used in many perfumes and colognes. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace aromatic nitro musks and polycyclic musks, since they appear to be safer.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02формувач об’єму
03сяйво
Форми випуску
синтетична речовина

Див. також

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