l-Мускон

СинтетичнийМУСКУС, АМБРОВИЙ АКОРД, ТВАРИННІ ЗАПАХИмускусний · теплий · свіжий
Базові нотиПіраміда
4/5Сила
—Стійкість
—Походження
Зразок
l-Мускон як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Визначення

l-Muscone is the (-)-enantiomer of muscone, (R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone, a 15-membered ring ketone and the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. Its odor is described as musk, animal, powdery.

ТВАРИННИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ
(R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone, (3R)-3-methylcyclopentadecan-1-one, (-)-muscone
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Source
Synthetic; also found naturally in deer musk
Chemical class
macrocyclic ketone
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
4/5Сила
Висока
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
Lingers on the skin

Запах

Muscone has the characteristic smell of being musky. Muscone has a peculiarly sensuous and erotic smell. The (R)-form has a strong musky odor having diffusiveness (threshold: 3 ppm), while the (S)-form has a chemical, spread-less and poor weak musky odor (threshold: 10 ppm). The (R)-form is about 3 times larger than the (S)-form regarding the strength of smell.

Докладно

Muscone is a macrocyclic ketone and the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. It is a 15-membered ring ketone with one methyl substituent in the 3-position. It is an oily liquid that is found naturally as the (-)-enantiomer, (R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone. It is very slightly soluble in water and miscible with alcohol. Its density is 0.9221 g/cm3.

The musk pod is a preputial gland in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer, and it is normally obtained by killing the animal. Muscone is contained in natural musk in an amount of approximately 0.5 to 2.0%. Killing one deer yields only about 25 grams of dried musk pods. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora made musk deer a protected species. Since obtaining natural musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all muscone used in perfumery and for scenting consumer products today is synthetic.

The human musk-recognizing receptor OR5AN1 responds robustly to muscone. It is reported to bind muscone and related musks such as civetone through hydrogen-bond formation from tyrosine-260 along with hydrophobic interactions with surrounding aromatic residues in the receptor.

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Related: Muscone

Цікавий факт

Human subjects homozygous for the more sensitive L289F allele of OR5AN1 had a lower detection threshold for muscone and found macrocyclic musks more intense than subjects homozygous for the reference allele. The human receptor OR5AN1 fails to distinguish in vitro between muscone and an isotopolog in which all hydrogen atoms were replaced.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Muscone can be made in the laboratory. One asymmetric synthesis of (-)-muscone begins with commercially available (+)-citronellal and forms the 15-membered ring by ring-closing metathesis. A more recent enantioselective synthesis involves an intramolecular aldol addition/dehydration reaction of a macrocyclic diketone. Another method starts with citronellol; its last two steps use a Grubbs' catalyst to achieve a ring-closure metathesis, followed by a catalytic hydrogenation. Muscone has been synthesized as the pure (-)-enantiomer as well as the racemate. The (R)-form and the (S)-form of optically active muscone can be prepared by asymmetric hydrogenation of 3-methyl-2-cyclopentadecene-1-one, using a ruthenium-optically active phosphine complex as the catalyst. The two forms can also be obtained by preparing the racemic mixture and then using an optical resolution method. In one example, (E)-3-methyl-cyclopentadecene-1-one was hydrogenated with Ru2Cl4[(S)-Tol-BINAP]2NEt3 in methanol and gave optically almost pure (R)-muscone in 95% yield.

Формула
C₁₆H₃₀O
CAS
10403-00-6
Зовнішній вигляд
oily liquid
Сила запаху
Висока
Стійкість
Lingers on the skin
Синоніми
(R)-3-methylcyclopentadecanone, (3R)-3-methylcyclopentadecan-1-one, (-)-muscone
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
328 °C
Температура плавлення
-15 °C

У парфумерії

As a large molecule, muscone is relatively involatile and lingers on the skin as part of the bottom note of a perfume. It also acts as a fixative, which reduces the evaporation rate of lighter molecules in particular. A fragrance composition and a shampoo containing a 92.5:7.5 (R)-form/(S)-form mixture of optically active muscone gained a natural, rich and fresh muskiness that is excellent in diffusiveness and voluminousness. A fragrance composition and a shampoo containing a 77.5:22.5 (R)-form/(S)-form mixture gained a creamy muskiness with a soft cleanness that leads to whiteness and with excellent powderiness.

Роль у формулі
01фірмова нота
02свіжість
03фіксатор
Форми випуску
стандартна форма

Див. також

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