Шкіряний акорд
Leather in perfumery is not the smell of leather itself but a fragrance built from other materials that capture its essence. This scent is closely tied to the tanning process or to finished leather goods.
- Type
- Акорд
- Olfactive family
- Амброві й мускусні
- Source
- constructed from materials such as birch tar, castoreum, cassie, tobacco, oakmoss, labdanum, burned seashells and saffron
Запах
Докладно
Цікавий факт
On its own, isobutyl quinoline is generic, and any chemical company can produce and sell it. Packaged into a base, however, it gives the creator of the base sole control of production and use. Neanderthals produced tar by dry distillation of birch bark as early as 200,000 years ago. A chewing gum of birch bark tar, 5,700 years old, was found in southern Denmark, and a complete human genome was sequenced from it.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
Birch bark tar is obtained by dry distillation of birch tree bark. In the modern single-pot method the bark is heated under airtight conditions, and the result is tar together with the ashes of the bark. Castoreum is extracted with alcohol from dried, crushed castor sacs. The dried castor sacs are generally aged for two or more years to mellow. In modern perfumes, suede is an additional leather note obtained with synthetic ingredients.
- Формула
- N/A (accord — component: isobutyl quinoline C₁₃H₁₅N)
- CAS
- N/A (accord — component: isobutyl quinoline 65442-31-1)
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
У парфумерії
Birch bark tar became a specialty fragrance material around the turn of the twentieth century, used as a base note to give fragrances a leathery, smoky note. It is used especially in the leather and tobacco genre and, to a lesser extent, in Chypres, above all in Cuir de Russie perfumes and fragrance bases. In these it typically appears together with castoreum and isobutyl quinoline. Perfumers use castoreum mostly for a note that suggests leather, usually compounding it with other ingredients that include top, middle and base notes. Leather perfumes fall into groups: true leathers, leathers with floral tones such as iris or violet, and tobacco leathers. PREMIEREPEAU's Simili Mirage (/products/simili-mirage-leather-salty-maquis-perfume) places leather in a Mediterranean context — salt, coastal garrigue, sun-cured hide — rather than the traditional Russian or English register.
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