Oud Sumatra

NaturalWOODS & MOSSESrich · woody · balsamic

BasePyramid

3/5Strength

—Tenacity

1Origins

Specimen

Aquilaria microcarpa / Aquilaria malaccensis

Definition

Dark, animalic, earthy-woody. Sumatran oud has a wild, jungle-floor character -- more aggressive and raw than Cambodian or Indian ouds, with a pronounced leather-barn undertone.

WOODY FLORAL CITRUS SMOKY SWEET BALSAMIC POWDERY WARM

Agarwood, Gaharu

Type: Ingredient
Olfactive family: Woods
Subfamily: Smoky woods
Cluster: Oud-like dark woods
Source: wood
Chemical class: complex natural (essential oil)

Instruments

Pyramid

TTop

HHeart

BBase

3/5Strength

Medium

odour strength

Producing countries

Indonesia (Sumatra)

Scent

Dark, animalic, earthy-woody with a pronounced leather-barn character on opening. More raw and aggressive than Cambodian oud, less sweet than Indian, with a jungle-floor dampness and volcanic-soil undertone. The animalic notes (from chromones) are stronger and persist longer. Not for the timid.

In PREMIEREPEAU

DISCOVERY SET7 × 2 ml →EXTRAIT DE PARFUMThe seven extraits →

The Full Story

Oud Sumatra refers to agarwood distilled from Aquilaria species (primarily A. malaccensis and A. microcarpa) grown in Sumatra, Indonesia. Indonesian ouds, including Sumatran, are generally considered darker, more animalic, and earthier than their Cambodian or Indian counterparts.

The olfactory profile of Sumatran oud is characterised by a pronounced animalic-barnyard top (from chromone derivatives like 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromone), a damp, jungle-floor earthiness, and a dark, resinous-woody heart. The terroir -- tropical lowland rainforest, volcanic soils, high humidity -- shapes the infection chemistry of the Aquilaria tree and, consequently, the distillate's character.

In perfumery, Sumatran oud provides a raw, uncompromising woody-animalic base note. It is less clean than Cambodian oud (which tends toward sweeter, fruitier profiles) and less sweet than Indian oud. The note works in dark ambers, animalic compositions, and oud-centric fragrances where wildness is desired over polish.

—

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method

Hydro-distillation or steam distillation of infected Aquilaria heartwood harvested from Sumatran trees. Distillation may take 3-7 days. Oil yield is extremely low. Wild Sumatran Aquilaria is CITES-listed due to overharvesting; plantation sources are increasingly common.

Formula: complex mixture (sesquiterpenes — agarospirol, jinkoh-eremol)
Botanical: Aquilaria microcarpa / Aquilaria malaccensis
Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid
Odour strength: Medium
Synonyms: Agarwood, Gaharu

IFRA status

See note

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Physical properties

Flash point: > 200 °F TCC (> 93 °C) (est)
Specific gravity: 0.930 to 1.050 @ 25 °C (est)

In Perfumery

Oud Sumatra is a raw, animalic-woody base note from Indonesian Aquilaria distillation. Pronounced chromone-driven animalic character, jungle-floor earthiness, and dark resinous depth. Less clean than Cambodian oud, less sweet than Indian. Works in dark ambers, animalic compositions, and oud-centric fragrances.

Role in the formula

01fixative

02modifier

03signature note

04blender

05freshness

Available as

essential oil