Konkret irisa

PrirodnaKORENJE I RIZOMIcvetni · puderast · drvenast
Bazne notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
2Poreklo
Uzorak
K
Bazne note
Iris germanica, Iris pallida
Definicija

Orris concrete is the wax-like, cream-colored mass into which the distilled oil of iris rhizomes solidifies. Its odor is woody, fatty-oily and distinctly violet-like.

CVETNI DRVENAST PUDERAST ZEMLJAN
orris butter, beurre d'iris, iris butter, orris oil
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Cvetni
Source
rhizome
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
Zemlje proizvođači
Francuska Italija

Miris

Orris concrete has a woody, fatty-oily, yet distinctly violet-like odor. The odor is sweet floral, warm and tenacious, with a fruity undertone. The fragrance of orris butter has also been described as tenaciously flowery, heavy and woody, and it is similar to violets. Irones typically have a sweet floral, iris, woody odor.

Detaljno

Orris oil, also called orris butter or beurre d'iris, is an essential oil derived from irises, particularly Iris germanica. The distilled oil solidifies in the receiver as a wax-like, cream-colored mass known as orris concrete. It is solid because of its high content of myristic acid (85%), a white stearin-like substance. Orris concrete melts at around body temperature. Orris root is the root of Iris germanica and Iris pallida. The most valued component of orris root is oil of orris, which makes up 0.1-0.2% of the root and is a yellow-white mass containing myristic acid. Other components of orris root include fat, resin, starch, mucilage, a bitter extractive and a glucoside called iridin or irisin.

Irones are a group of methylionone odorants used in perfumery, derived from iris oil. Irones form through slow oxidation of triterpenoids in the dried rhizomes of Iris pallida. These C14 ketones derive from the oxidative degradation of methylated bicyclic triterpenoids, the cycloiridals. Irones as usually found in iris extracts are a mixture of the isomers gamma-irone, cis-alpha-irone, trans-alpha-irone and beta-irone. So far irones have been found only in orris root oil and in oak moss extracts. Alpha-irone has the molecular formula C₁₄H₂₂O and a molecular weight of 206.32. Myristic acid is a common saturated fatty acid. It is also found in the rhizomes of the Iris, including orris root.

Iris pallida is cultivated in the Chianti region of Italy for its fragrance and medicinal properties. It is native to the Dalmatian coast (Croatia) but widely naturalised elsewhere. Iris × germanica is a natural hybrid involving a cross between Iris pallida and Iris variegata.

Iris pallida is grown commercially for the extraction of essential oils from its rhizome, which is the orris root. It prefers rocky places in the Mediterranean and Submediterranean zone and grows to a stem height of 50-80 cm. Iris × germanica is thought to have originated in the Mediterranean region and is widely naturalized across Europe. The scent of the iris root differs from that of the flower, and after preparation it is reminiscent of violets. Orris root is also used as a botanical in gin and in tinctures that flavour syrups.

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Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Irone extracts are produced by solvent extraction or steam distillation of the rhizomes of any iris species, preferably Iris pallida or Iris germanica. After a cultivation period of 2-3 years the rhizomes are harvested and stored for 3-5 years at room temperature. During this maturation period the irones are released from their precursors. The irones are then recovered by steam distillation of the powdered rhizomes, giving iris butter, or by solvent extraction, giving a resinoid. Iris butter and iris absolute are the traditionally preferred products. The long maturation is cumbersome and expensive, and it needs extensive storage capacity. One ton of iris root produces two kilos of essential oil, also referred to as orris root butter or butter of iris.

Formula
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: myristic acid C₁₄H₂₈O₂; irones C₁₄H₂₂O)
CAS
8002-73-1
Botanički naziv
Iris germanica, Iris pallida
Izgled
wax-like, cream-colored mass
Sinonimi
orris butter, beurre d'iris, iris butter, orris oil
Status prema standardima IFRA
Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Fizička svojstva
Tačka topljenja
around body temperature

U parfemima

Orris concrete is used in perfumery when the presence of myristic acid is not prohibitive, for example in soap perfumes, where the weak acid acts only as a fixative. The methyl and ethyl esters of myristic acid are often used for blending in violet type perfume bases. The high cost of orris oil production limits its application. Orris root is commonly used as a fixative and base note in perfumery. Orris oil is sometimes used as a flavoring agent and as an ingredient in perfume production. Orris oil can also have uses in body lotions.

Uloga u formuli
01fiksativ
02nota potpisa
03sirovina za stapanje
Oblici na tržištu
konkret

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