Sclarene

SintetičkaPOPULARNO I NEOBIČNOdrvenast · suv · ambrast
Bazne notePiramida
—Jačina
—Trajnost
—Poreklo
Uzorak
Sclarene kao sirovina za parfeme
Bazne note
Definicija

Sclarene is a diterpene hydrocarbon with two rings and the formula C20H32. The name is also used as a trade name for a different woody material.

DRVENAST SUV KAMFORNI METALAN AMBRAST MOŠUSNI
(+)-sclarene
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Drvenasti
Chemical class
diterpene hydrocarbon
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
—Jačina
Srednji (procena)
Srednji (procena)

Miris

The material sold under the trade name Sclarene has a strong dry woody note with camphor and warm metallic undertones. Its olfactive note is given as woody, dry and ambery.

Detaljno

Diterpenes are terpenes made of four isoprene units, often with the molecular formula C20H32. Sclarene is one of the diterpenes with two rings, as is labdane. The molecular weight of sclarene is 272.5. Diterpenes are biosynthesized by plants, animals and fungi, with geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate as a primary intermediate.

Sclareol is a bicyclic diterpene alcohol found in Salvia sclarea. Sclareol is extracted by steam distillation of fresh flowers, then purified by further extraction using an organic solvent. It is the most common starting material for manufacturing ambroxide, which is used as a fixative in commercial perfumes.

A different material, with the formula C13H21NO and the chemical name 4,5-decamethyleneoxazole, is sold under the trade name Sclarene. That product is a colourless liquid with a molecular weight of 207.3.

The systematic name of sclarene is (4aS,8S,8aS)-4,4,8a-trimethyl-7-methylidene-8-(3-methylidenepent-4-enyl)-2,3,4a,5,6,8-hexahydro-1H-naphthalene. The compound is also written (+)-sclarene.

Strictly, diterpenes are hydrocarbons and contain no heteroatoms. Functionalized structures should be called diterpenoids, although the two terms are often used interchangeably in scientific literature. The number of rings divides diterpenes broadly: phytane has none, cembrene A has one, abietane and taxadiene have three, and stemarene and stemodene have four.

Salvia sclarea, the clary or clary sage, is a short-lived herbaceous perennial native to the northern Mediterranean Basin and to some areas in North Africa and Central Asia. It is currently grown for its essential oil. Sclareol is mainly produced in the glandular trichomes of sage flower calyces.

Ambroxide is a naturally occurring terpenoid and one of the key constituents responsible for the odor of ambergris. It is an autoxidation product of ambrein.

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Related: Alder · Alpha Humulene · Amaranth · Amberever · Amburana Bark · Antillone · Apple Tree

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

Ambroxide is synthesized from sclareol, a component of the essential oil of clary sage. Sclareol is oxidatively degraded to a lactone, which is hydrogenated to the corresponding diol, and the diol is dehydrated to form ambroxide. A newer patented method starts from homofarnesol instead and was stated to need 100 times less agricultural surface than the clary sage route.

Formula
C₂₀H₃₂
CAS
511-02-4
Izgled
Clear mobile liquid, colourless to pale yellow (trade product Sclarene 80% in DPG)
Jačina mirisa
Srednji (procena)
Sinonimi
(+)-sclarene
Status prema standardima IFRA
Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

U parfemima

The product sold under the trade name Sclarene can be used in small quantity with musky and ambery notes to bring warm and metallic facets. It is commonly used at low dosages below 1%, but can be overdosed to bring a very unique signature to the fragrance. It is also often considered a musk booster, as it shows interesting musky facets with good substantivity and fixative properties without being musky. On a blotter its tenacity is several days.

Uloga u formuli
01modifikator
02fiksativ
03podsticač mošusnog karaktera
Oblici na tržištu
standardni oblik

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